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  1. #11

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    Nov 2012
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    Rafal -
    Thanks man! Would you recommend getting a viewfinder with metering in it if possible?

  2. #12
    Rafal Lukawiecki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mporter012 View Post
    Rafal -
    Thanks man! Would you recommend getting a viewfinder with metering in it if possible?
    The prism viewfinders are quite heavy in comparison to the waist-level one. I would suggest you tried one out, before making a decision, if possible. If you are getting a prism, however, then it makes sense to go for the one with metering. Bear in mind that even on the used market those still sell at a premium, especially the newer models.

    Much depends on how, and what will you be photographing. If you plan to focus on landscapes, from a tripod, you are likely to be carrying a few other things with you, and a separate spot-meter will be a useful and an easy item to add to your kit. Such a meter will become essential if you plan on using the Zone System some time in future. On the other hand, if you want to photograph hand-held, in a relatively good lighting, on B&W film, which is very forgiving or exposure errors, the metered prism would be ideal—if you are strong enough to comfortably hand hold it all. Some people would say that in the latter case, with a little experience, you could even guess the exposure, and rely on B&W film's latitude to take care of any errors.
    Rafal Lukawiecki
    See rafal.net | Read rafal.net/articles

  3. #13

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    Oct 2011
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    Saint Louis, MO
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    I bought a prism finder for my 501 and quickly put it away. It is too big to carry around and does not provide that much advantage over the standard viewfinder. Pick up a good used meter and you are all set. I use a Gossen Luna Pro that I picked up recently on Ebay for a song.

  4. #14

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    Nov 2012
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    I have a 501 cm with an 80mm and a 120mm. I use the waist level viewfinder when I am shooting landscapes,etc. When I am working with people, I have a kiev prism viewfinder. It weighs a ton, but works good for when I am shooting people in a more dynamic environment where things are moving more quickly. I have an old Sekonic L-28 light meter and I meter frequently when necessary with changing light, but otherwise I do periodic readings and pay attention to the light. My lenses are T* coated, but I've read a lot of feedback from folks who think that this is not necessary. The "kit" option is a good way to buy...
    one, because you get the package deal price which is usually better than buying each piece separately
    two, you get what you need to shoot
    three, there's a lot of them available because they sold a lot that way and people are selling them now...

    I love my Hasselblad and Zeiss glass rocks. This may sound silly, but there seems to be focus latitude with these lenses...they are just so d*** sharp...

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
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    Portland, Oregon
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    Skip the 220 backs. They're cheap now because there is very little film available in 220. B&H shows only Portra color negative films in 220 format. I think even Tri-X 220 was discontinued a couple of years ago.

    Peter Gomena

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Chicago
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    233
    Great advice from everyone. Thanks a ton!

    Mark

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