Yashika Mat 124G Filter ?

[wallrat]

The spec sheet says it takes 30mm filters but all I see available anywhere are 30.5mm. Can someone with this camera confirm which it actually is?

-Bill

Sent from my. Galaxy Tab II via TapaTalk

[Ken Nadvornick]

The Yashica Mat 124G takes a 30mm bayonet type filter. Meaning it mounts with a partial twist and a click. These are also referred to as B30 or Bay-1 filters. Other TLR cameras taking this size include Rolleicords, some Rolleiflexes, and Autocords. There may be others as well. As would be expected, the lens hood is also a bayonet mount.

I own and use one of these cameras. Hope this helps.

Ken

[wallrat]

Ah, I just read it again and I see that now. I'll look at what is available. I only shoot bw so I don't need many. I'm seriously thinking of buying this canera tomorrow Thanks a bunch for the heads up!

-Bill

Sent from my. Galaxy Tab II via TapaTalk

[Ken Nadvornick]

Keep in mind that this camera requires a PX625 1.35-volt mercury cell to power its internal meter. That is, if it's still in working order. These cells are no longer available. This may or may not matter to you if you intend to use an external meter. It's not an issue for me as I have a lifetime supply of PX625s in deep freeze. But it's worth mentioning.

Ken

[Marc B.]

Instead of buying individual Bay-1 filters, you can also obtain Bay-1 - to screw mount filter adapters.
These adapters will allow you to use common screw mount filters that you may already have, and
with the use of step-up/step-down rings, you can fit just about any filter and rubber hood size you have.

An example of Bay-1 adapter-to-screw mount w/round hood:
http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/271_IMG_7147_1.jpg
http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/271_IMG_7148_1.jpg

Bay-1 to 30.5mm:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Ring_Bay.html

Bay-1 to 46mm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230892668328...84.m1423.l2649

Bay-1 to 49mm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310526950651...84.m1423.l2649

Bay-1 to 52mm:
http://www.amazon.com/52mm-Adapter-R.../dp/B0079QRP7Y
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230892668327...84.m1423.l2649

Marc

[DWThomas]

The one hazard with adapting to standard filters is that at some size point the filter and/or shade begins to obstruct the viewing lens. I've first hand experience, having adapted my 124 G to use a Series 7 89B IR filter that has been in my possession for decades (those are about 60 mm). The shade is more likely to be the problem in that scenario. Being so close to the lens, the interference is more ghost-like and wasn't too bad to deal with unless you had critical details in the bottom of the composition. There are some new plastic Bay-1 filters appearing on ePrey from time to time that seem to work OK. They are inexpensive - Authenticke Rollei filters show up too, but they tend to be a bit more dear.

[Dan Daniel]

The one hazard with adapting to standard filters is that at some size point the filter and/or shade begins to obstruct the viewing lens. I've first hand experience, having adapted my 124 G to use a Series 7 89B IR filter that has been in my possession for decades (those are about 60 mm)......

Along this issue, I will say that using a Bay I to 52mm adapter with a round metal hood, I didn't notice any shading or dimming of the viewfinder. I *did* get vignetting from the lens hood because the adapter and filter moved it further out than usual. I took the hood to a disk sander and removed a few mm to stop the vignetting.

[wallrat]

The battery is not an issue. My Olympus OM's require the same and 625 hearing aid batteries with an insulated wire as a spacer works well, especially givenue the crazy price for wein cells, at least imho since I see no benefit. My OM meters are all pretty spot on and the batteries are crazy cheap, especially Walgreens brand on sale. Since I mostly shoot LF and my prior RZ PRO-II didn't have a prism, using my 528 when on a tripod will be the norm anyway. For handheld the hearing aid battery will work great. I found some Rollei filters and will slowly build enough to cover my typical B&W work, which for this camera's purpose will bea few yellow to red along the 12 to 25 range and a light green. I will pick up an adapter to use my 67mm filters for tripod mounted cases where I don't care if it intrudes with the viewing lens. I plan to use this mostly as a "point n shoot" as most of my serious 6x work is done via graflock backs on my Chamonix.

I haven't posted much on APUG due to limited time. I spend most of what little free time i have on lfpf. I greatly appreciate the tips and feedback guys, it seems as if I'm good to go on this one. Aside from those mentioned, anyone have any other gotchas I should know about on this camera? I hear a lot of positive feedback on it.

-Bill

Sent from my. Galaxy Tab II via TapaTalk

[Dan Daniel]

Wind the film somewhat slowly all in all. The gears are known to strip out.

Use a lens hood. Every time.

Flock the interior for contrast increase.
http://www.flickr.com/groups/yashica...7622734630140/

Mark Hama in Georgia is the best US guy for repairs. Essex Camera in NJ is another good place.

Jon Goodman sells light seal replacement kits for these cameras. Great material, great kits, great guy.

DO NOT do anything with the self-timer if the flash sync is set to M. NOT A THING!!! Seriously, the number one way to trash the shutter mechanism (assuming the 124G has an M setting).

[StoneNYC]

Keep in mind that this camera requires a PX625 1.35-volt mercury cell to power its internal meter. That is, if it's still in working order. These cells are no longer available. This may or may not matter to you if you intend to use an external meter. It's not an issue for me as I have a lifetime supply of PX625s in deep freeze. But it's worth mentioning.

Ken

Deep freeze?

Do mercury cells work differently? I thought past a certain cold freeze you kill the internal battery chemistry?


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk