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  1. #21
    Brian C. Miller's Avatar
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    Ratty, the color images seem to be in focus, based on the size posted. In the first post, I can see individual hairs on the children, particularly the girl. If I remember correctly, the model you have is an autofocus camera, correct? So the first question I have about your B&W image is, where would you expect the camera to focus?

    The Fuji system uses IR beams, like a point & shoot. The beams need to target something. The scene you have shows a street scene, from near to far, with lots of stuff there. The area that is dead ahead of the camera is dark, with a wall with lots of stuff on it at an angle to the camera. Perhaps the autofocus beams told the camera that it was focusing on infinity?

    My Fuji GA645zi has a full manual mode, but it also displays all of the settings it will use when I press the button halfway down. Like shutter speed, f/stop, and focus zone. (And I have my back set to print the information on the film, too.) If your camera displays the focus area it will use, then I suggest that you check that to make sure it's targeting the correct area.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian C. Miller View Post
    Ratty, the color images seem to be in focus, based on the size posted. In the first post, I can see individual hairs on the children, particularly the girl. If I remember correctly, the model you have is an autofocus camera, correct? So the first question I have about your B&W image is, where would you expect the camera to focus?

    The Fuji system uses IR beams, like a point & shoot. The beams need to target something. The scene you have shows a street scene, from near to far, with lots of stuff there. The area that is dead ahead of the camera is dark, with a wall with lots of stuff on it at an angle to the camera. Perhaps the autofocus beams told the camera that it was focusing on infinity?

    My Fuji GA645zi has a full manual mode, but it also displays all of the settings it will use when I press the button halfway down. Like shutter speed, f/stop, and focus zone. (And I have my back set to print the information on the film, too.) If your camera displays the focus area it will use, then I suggest that you check that to make sure it's targeting the correct area.

    I cant recall what I used to focus the camera in the monochrome image. Since I was not quite close to anything, I would have expected that the depth of field would be large enough to allow for something to be in focus, even if it choose infinity. I cannot see focus area in my viewfinder except for the center cross hairs. I dont believe the GA645 focuses anywhere but dead center in the viewfinder. I try to check the distance information reported to see if it makes sense but I cannot judge close calls like 1.5 meters (vs 1.4 or 1.8 meters if those were the real distances).

  3. #23
    Brian C. Miller's Avatar
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    Well, here's the thing: I don't see the jiggle in your B&W photo that I would associate with a slow shutter speed. The furtherest thing in the photograph looks like it's a lot closer than "infinity," so I'm guessing that the aperture was wide open, like f/4.0. What I can tell is that the things that are the most out-of-focus are closest to you, while the things that are the least out-of-focus are furtherest away from you. Plus you have that light leak on the right hand side, so that can also mess up evaluation of the negative. According to the manual, if the lens is wide open, then what will be "in focus" will be 20m to infinity. That seems to be outside of the range of what's in the photograph.

    Another thing is that you are having the lab scan the film for you. Have you looked at your film using a loupe? Very often a hastily performed scan, like a sloppy enlargement, will make it appear that your camera is messing up when it's actually OK.

    Do you know any film afficianados in your area? It might be worth your while to seek out someone with some experience, and ask them some questions. Ask them to look at the processed film.

    Also, have you done a brick wall test? Really, just about any wall outdoors will do. Place yourself perpendicular to the wall, and make a series of exposures at the autofocus distance. The wall should always be in focus. According to the manual, just don't use a wall which only has vertical stripes, because that messes up the autofocus.

  4. #24

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    Brian, Thank you for ALL your suggestions. I will follow them and do the brick wall test. I also need to buy a loupe! All great points. Thank you for your time.

  5. #25
    Mark Fisher's Avatar
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    I just take the shot with the lens wide open when I need to. With my GA645zi (great camera), I can hand hold 1/15 pretty regularly. Here is one example that I know was at about 1/15 (maybe 1/8) by looking at the page turning. Technique coupled with a soft release can allow you to get pretty low with this camera. Now, if I could quiet it down, it would be perfect!
    Your first 10,000 pictures are the worst - HCB

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  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Fisher View Post
    I just take the shot with the lens wide open when I need to. With my GA645zi (great camera), I can hand hold 1/15 pretty regularly. Here is one example that I know was at about 1/15 (maybe 1/8) by looking at the page turning. Technique coupled with a soft release can allow you to get pretty low with this camera. Now, if I could quiet it down, it would be perfect!
    I think my technique is pretty good, yet I'm not getting much focus. It is disappointing. I need to do the test described above.

  7. #27
    fotch's Avatar
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    I can usually feel how steady I am holding the camera. If it needs to be sharp, either set a higher shutter speed or find a way to brace the camera. Only my digital has auto focus and I find it far from fool proof so usually shut if off & focus manually.
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  8. #28

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    I think the issue is a narrow depth of field caused by shooting ASA100 films perhaps coupled with low shutter speeds.

    I'd try two things - firstly set the data read out to print exposure information for each frame, then you'll see if low speeds/big apertures are correlating with poor shots. Secondly, I'd shoot a roll of something faster like ASA400 or 800 to see if that helps make the shots more acceptable.
    Steve.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    No mirror in the GA645, it's a rangefinder. A monopod would suck the life out of a GA645. It's built to be a p & s.
    i stand corrected -- work on technique then -- squeezing the shutter button, breath control, rest your head against the wall and the camera against your head, and so forth -- hand-held 1/10th with a leica is possible doing this, a fuji rangefinder even in 120 should be the same. I've handheld a rollei down to 1/30th no problem.
    Last edited by summicron1; 01-05-2013 at 11:45 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by summicron1 View Post
    i stand corrected -- work on technique then -- squeezing the shutter button, breath control, rest your head against the wall and the camera against your head, and so forth -- hand-held 1/10th with a leica is possible doing this, a fuji rangefinder even in 120 should be the same. I've handheld a rollei down to 1/30th no problem.
    Just remember, a GA645 has a 65mm lens on it. 1/10 sec is waaay lower than the 1/focal length rule of thumb.

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