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  1. #11
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Processing success tonight! The gel backing on 2405 makes it impossible to load onto a spiral in a dark bag because the heat+sweat makes it stick to the spiral and even itself (emulsion to film-back). In the darkroom though with a freshly-hairdryered Jobo spiral, it loads nicely.

    I discovered that my cassettes do not leak light at all, so loading the back in daylight is fine.

    I tried a technique I saw mentioned in another 70mm thread wherein you score the film (through the gate of the back) to mark the boundary between developing batches/rolls, then cut the film at that point when loading the spirals. In theory that means you can process three or four rolls of up to 20 frames each in 220 spirals while wasting only a frame per roll boundary instead of the six or so frames wasted by opening the back, cutting the film and inserting a new takeup cassette. However, I couldn't feel the scratches in the dark, mostly because I tend to avoid touching the emulsion side. Maybe one needs to be more violent to the sacrificial frame, I don't know and I don't want to commit a violence on the pressure-plate.

    Anyway, 2405 works reasonably well in Xtol 1+1 rotary: 8:00 for EI200, 9:00 for EI400. Those times are the only tests I've done and I've not done any sensitometry on the film, just had a look at how it came out. Will post images later this week once scanned.

    Now of course I find that it doesn't fit in my 6x7 enlarger carrier or my Nikon 8000, but I do have about 3000' of 70mm sleeving on a roll that I scored for $20 a couple years ago...

  2. #12
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    Nice work Polyglot! Glad that it worked for you!
    Two days ago i went out and shoot some 40+ frames on 70mm. Capacity of my reel is 100" or around 40 frames. I was also thinking about marking the end of one batch and start of second. Maybe I will try with sticking piece of tape on the frame. As for developer I'm sticking to HC110, dilution H, at 100 iso.
    As for processed negatives, I simply cut off perforations so I can use 120 negative sleeves, enlarger & scanner carriers.
    Please let me know if you see some good deal on 70mm film, PM is just fine, will do the same.

  3. #13
    gorbas's Avatar
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    As for marking, I did it before cutting across the frame on exposure tests rolls of 120 and it worked, but backing paper was protection between film and pressure plate, but simply scratching it will not work especially when you have more frames on the roll.
    Last time I loaded max amount of 2405 film in cassette and would like to figure out how many exposures there are on the that roll.

  4. #14
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Tape to mark a frame is a good idea; I shall have to try that. Hopefully it doesn't catch the felt in the light trap though.

    PS: PM'd you...
    Last edited by polyglot; 02-16-2013 at 05:02 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #15
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    :-))) My light traps are wide open!! At least something good from them! But will not go crazy with thick tape, maybe just masking, no gaffer tape.

  6. #16
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    Hey guys! A few things I've learned about 70mm...

    I label the canisters as either "film out" or "film in" and always use the same canister for the same direction, because the fibers get most damaged at being reversed... since they were only made to last for about 3 times before being thrown out, this helps to allow them to last for much longer with no light leak issues.

    loading a 70mm spiral is a B!$ch!! The whole point of shooting 70mm for me is to be able to take 55 images at a time, so it's pointless to cut them up into smaller amounts, but loading that spiral is a pain and I still haven't found a good spiral loading assistant, be really careful as I've often skipped tracks and ended up with stuck together shots.

    70mm seems to be MUCH more prone to scratching so I would recommend a hardening fixer.

    I found Ilfsol 3 to work well as it's a fast developer (often 4-5 minutes) which cuts down on base fog, I haven't tried HC-110 yet but that's for my next experiment as it's a lot cheaper.

    ALSO

    Polyglot you have 70mm in IR film??? Whoa, where did you score that??

    Gorbas I think you're the first person I ever talked to on APUG and the reason I joined the forum, so thanks, and thanks for that really quick and easy way to use a grip to hold the reel while loading, not bad, but I don't have a dark room so I do it by hand in a bag, I'll have to try the OP's method, makes sense and seems a lot easier... I've just been lazy about going to the hardware store to buy supplies to make something like that.

  7. #17
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Thanks for the directionality tip, I'll definitely do some labelling and keep it in mind! Any tips for preserving the felt in the face of the lateral motion of the film when inserting the spool into the metal cassette? Is it considered a bad idea to pry the canister open slightly to preserve the felt or does that come with other risks related to gaps forming in the corner?

    The IR400 is from macodirect, and when I say "I have" what I really mean is "it's in the post and I expect to take delivery this week". I got it because IR820 is discontinued and no longer available at a reasonable price and while I have most of a decade's worth in 4x5, I only had 9 rolls left in 120 and it's my favourite landscape film. IR400 isn't as nice IMHO, but it will have to do.

    While I'd love a proper long-roll 70mm spiral, it seems either the prices are silly (Jobo, especially the 15-foot 3xxx version) or they're near-impossible to use. The 220-spiral approach works well for me for now as long as I have a reliable way of marking 20-frame boundaries and therefore not wasting a bunch of film on cassette changes. Loading the 220 spirals (for Jobo 2xxx tanks) is no problem.

    I've just started feeding the 2405 into my scanner now.

  8. #18
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Example one (crop), two (crop).

    Not very interesting artistically but clearly the process is working OK. I should have some portrait samples tomorrow.

  9. #19
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    homemade 70mm loader

    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    Thanks for the directionality tip, I'll definitely do some labelling and keep it in mind! Any tips for preserving the felt in the face of the lateral motion of the film when inserting the spool into the metal cassette? Is it considered a bad idea to pry the canister open slightly to preserve the felt or does that come with other risks related to gaps forming in the corner?

    The IR400 is from macodirect, and when I say "I have" what I really mean is "it's in the post and I expect to take delivery this week". I got it because IR820 is discontinued and no longer available at a reasonable price and while I have most of a decade's worth in 4x5, I only had 9 rolls left in 120 and it's my favourite landscape film. IR400 isn't as nice IMHO, but it will have to do.

    While I'd love a proper long-roll 70mm spiral, it seems either the prices are silly (Jobo, especially the 15-foot 3xxx version) or they're near-impossible to use. The 220-spiral approach works well for me for now as long as I have a reliable way of marking 20-frame boundaries and therefore not wasting a bunch of film on cassette changes. Loading the 220 spirals (for Jobo 2xxx tanks) is no problem.

    I've just started feeding the 2405 into my scanner now.
    I wast aware there was a JOBO that took 15ft of 70mm hmm is that a processor style or hand developer tank?

    Also I would think the 70mm would have more issues with IR light leak than normal film... But I could be wrong.

    I would also suspect the prying open of the cassette would cause light leak issues and defeat the purpose of the felt when you want to change a roll out of the back in daylight.

    I haven't had any issues now that I've labeled the direction and stuck to that. But I started with never used cassettes so I started ahead of the game.

    I get frustrated with 70mm, I've considered selling the lot... And moving on, and then of course I just bought a graflock 70mm back for a 4x5 so now I'm all in... :shrug:


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Jobo part numbers are 3075 (5m reel) and 3035 (Expert drum to contain that reel). Very expensive.

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