Enjoy it. It won't take long to get hooked on those big negatives and the next thing you know you will be asking how to use and carry a Crown Graphic.
Originally Posted by the.ronin
Ultimate Exposure Meter
Here's a link. It's fun to be reliant on your own perception.
I did that
35mm for MANY MANY years
then 6x6. The price dropped so I could afford a Hasselblad, and it was cheaper than my D70.
then 4x5. Although I have not shot yet, still gathering parts
Mine arrived yesterday. I wasn't home, so I picked it up at the PO this morning. (Auction ended Sunday. In Virginia on Thursday- not bad...)
It's huge! I'm going to try to run some film through it this weekend, but the basic functions all seem to work. Still, can't be sure until a roll goes through it. Here it is next to an Olympus for sense of scale:
First, congratulations on buying this camera. It will not disappoint.
Originally Posted by the.ronin
1) If you want a modern meter, I would recommend a simple incident meter like the Sekonic L-308S. I have one myself: they're cheap, reliable and easy to use (and they take AA batteries). If your budget is tight, any older model will do, really.
2) A 6x9 camera just begs for transparency film. Get yourself some of the current Fuji offerings, they're all excellent. My personal favorite is Velvia 100F. For black and white, the possibilities are limitless. I like Tri-X or HP5+ in Xtol.
3) Developing B&W film at home is much easier than you'd expect, and the results are so much better than minilab-processed film. Read around, there's a lot of good information on this forum with regards to developing your first rolls.
4) I've used the Canoscan 9000F in combination with a GW690. It's a very decent scanner with a true resolution of about 1600-2000ppi. Canon claims 9600ppi optical resolution, but that's nonsense. I scan my medium format negs and slides at 1600ppi, which is more than enough for most digital purposes. If you want to print really big, you may have to use a professional grade scanner (like a drumscanner or a Hasselblad) somewhere. APUG is not the place to discuss these things, so let me just conclude: yes, I'd recommend the 9000F.
5) The GW690 has strap lugs on the side of the camera, I don't know if the GSW690II is the same. Get yourself a good neoprene strap and you'll soon forget you have a camera hanging on your shoulder. As for bags, there is a plethora of choices. I use the (rather expensive but well worth it) F-stop Loka with a medium ICU.
And the sign said, "long haired freaky people need not apply"
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Wow - that's a freakin' beauty! Just love it!
My .02 -
A dslr is fantastic for learning and testing, and comparing your film later. Take plenty of notes as you shoot. Keep in mind the dynamic range of a DSLR will differ from your film. My Nikon has the ability to make custom in-camera profiles. I've been experimenting with a black & white profile (though this interests me for some upcoming film projects that will have paid models, stylists, and complex lighting - little room for surprises). I'm finding pushed B&W negs lose a lot of shadow detail compared to the DSLR and I'd like to have an on-set proofing setup that shows this.
The iPhone light meters - really quite good in my experience. And the Sekonic 308 was my first meter (and I still use it).
I'll be the lone dissenting voice on reels - Hewes for 35mm is a no-brainer. But for MF, I find plastic reels much much easier to load. I do a lot of snip-testing (running half or third rolls to try developer times, etc) and a plastic reel is an absolute must for this, as it doesn't damage the tail of the film.