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  1. #11
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Is it? I don't know, but I didn't know about the lithium thing either.

    Maybe that's why I'm having battery issues...

    Hmmm I don't see any silver oxide batteries at my local photo store.. Uh oh...


    ~Stone

    Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've had some uneven results when running shutter speed tests on freshly overhauled cameras. This could be the reason for fluctuations and for negatives coming out not as I thought they should, as I thought that had when using a different camera but all other variables the same (exposure / iso ... development). The battery could be the variable causing the inconsistencies I've seen.

  2. #12
    AgX
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    75$ !!!!

    Nice technology, but the price has to be related to its usefulness.

  3. #13
    ParkerSmithPhoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konakoa View Post
    Just a bit off topic: my cameras use batteries from alkaline button cells to specialized lithiums. There's also a bunch of stuff in the house that uses AA batteries. A really, really nice battery tester is one of these made by ZTS: http://www.ztsinc.com/mbt1.html

    It tests just about every kind and formulation of battery available. It also tests under load for accuracy, not just the voltage so you'll know exactly what's left in the battery. It's really, really useful for the above mentioned specialty batteries so there's no second guessing when the battery in my RZ needs replacing, the AA in my hand held light meter is weak or even if I need to change the button cells in the red light for my telescope.
    Looks cool, but how do you know when the batteries in IT need replacing....? Hmmm.....
    Parker Smith Photography, Inc.
    Atlanta, GA

    Commercial & Fine Art Photography
    Portrait Photography

  4. #14
    ParkerSmithPhoto's Avatar
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    Well, try as I might, I cannot replicate the shutter problem on the RZ with the back off and looking through the lens. It seems perfectly steady. Could the electrical contacts on the back have anything to do with this? I have no idea what those do other than maybe sync up with a metered prism, which I don't have.
    Parker Smith Photography, Inc.
    Atlanta, GA

    Commercial & Fine Art Photography
    Portrait Photography

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    75$ !!!! Nice technology, but the price has to be related to its usefulness.
    I know, I know. B&H has them for a tiny bit less. I will say that I've had mine for years and it's been dang useful. There is no second guessing if a battery is good or not with it. It has saved me from having to buy those expensive lithium batteries annually for my RZ because it does let me know what's left in them. Saving $10 a battery does add up.

    Really off topic: lots of uses around the house for it too. Stuff like the batteries in remote controls. I was also using mine recently to see if the rechargeable batteries for the outdoor solar powered garden lights were still any good. (A lot of them weren't.)

    And Parker--the easy answer is to get four new ones, stick them in the tester, test the old batteries, and if they're still good pop 'em right back in. On the RZ--any chance something metallic (non metered prism?) is making contact on the camera body where the AE viewfinder terminals are? Mine has a little plastic insert to cover those terminals up. Black electrical tape could work too. The contacts on the film backs are only for setting the film speed for the metered prisms. They shouldn't be doing anything to the shutter.

  6. #16
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konakoa View Post
    Just a bit off topic: my cameras use batteries from alkaline button cells to specialized lithiums. There's also a bunch of stuff in the house that uses AA batteries. A really, really nice battery tester is one of these made by ZTS: http://www.ztsinc.com/mbt1.html

    It tests just about every kind and formulation of battery available. It also tests under load for accuracy, not just the voltage so you'll know exactly what's left in the battery. It's really, really useful for the above mentioned specialty batteries so there's no second guessing when the battery in my RZ needs replacing, the AA in my hand held light meter is weak or even if I need to change the button cells in the red light for my telescope.
    I doesn't tell you the voltage the battery is giving out , I prefer to use a digital multi- meter http://www.screwfix.com/p/philex-830...FcrHtAodAX4AQg
    Ben

  7. #17
    ParkerSmithPhoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konakoa View Post
    On the RZ--any chance something metallic (non metered prism?) is making contact on the camera body where the AE viewfinder terminals are? Mine has a little plastic insert to cover those terminals up. Black electrical tape could work too. The contacts on the film backs are only for setting the film speed for the metered prisms. They shouldn't be doing anything to the shutter.
    My waist level finder has no plastic cover for those contacts. I will try a piece of tape.

    Strangely, the camera seems to work perfectly in the studio, even with 8 second exposures. It may have been the cold weather affecting the battery.
    Parker Smith Photography, Inc.
    Atlanta, GA

    Commercial & Fine Art Photography
    Portrait Photography

  8. #18
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    Lithium batteries are a bit more robust in cold conditions than either alkaline or zinc. In New Zealand I was shooting in temperatures of 3°C often, cold enough to impair my dexterity and fog optics.

    It's a very different camera, but of notable mention: my EOS1N's power drive booster E1 holds 8 lithium AA batteries (for reducing weight and readiness in cold and hot conditions). This set will have been in service for 7 years this June (!)

    I have no idea how many rolls/exposures over that time. Lithium batteries have a steep 'sudden death' curve, manifesting as hesitation, then an unpredictable 'stop': in some cameras this can mean a film jam/inability to rewind/mirror lock/shutter lock or a combination of them. They really need to be tested every couple of months to observe any 'creep' leading to failure.
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






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