Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 75,727   Posts: 1,670,223   Online: 875
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11
    hgernhardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Brockton, MA
    Medium Format
    Quote Originally Posted by ted_smith View Post
    I was just saying that I am having some difficulty adjusting to the manual nature of my Hasselblad over my F5.
    Understandable. After auto-everything, getting used to a focus ring can be quite the challenge.

    Quote Originally Posted by ted_smith View Post
    For example, I shot some pics of my kids in the garden the other day (have just sent the films off) using my Blad and by the time I'd focussed on my 1.5yr old, he'd moved!
    As was said, this simply takes practice. Do you have an eye-level prism finder? In my opinion, such a thing is an absolute must for action shots. Yes, infants and toddlers fall in that category! I've not used a Hassy before, but I imagine you can still set up your hands so that one supports camera and has a finger poised over the shutter release, while the second is manning the focus ring. Preset your aperture and shutter speed based upon lighting conditions (or flash distance/guide number). Natural light photography will require faster shutter speeds.

    Just a case of learning a few more skills. You can practice also by setting your F5 into full manual mode.

    I must admit, I wish I had your problem… Of owning a Hassy, that is.
    Henry C. Gernhardt, III

  2. #12
    MattKing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Delta, British Columbia, Canada
    Multi Format
    Quote Originally Posted by naeroscatu View Post
    From own experience in shooting weddings in a previous life and owning a 500 C/ M in present life I can tell it would be a hell of a challenge to keep up and do a wedding from start to end with a Hasselblad. Most weddings I have seen done professionally the photographer has an assistant shooting a second camera, different angles, etc. I can see using Hasselblad as second camera in a wedding scenario like it was shown above just for the special moments.
    I shot weddings for years with a Mamiya C330 but no assistant.

    You get fewer shots, but a higher ratio of keepers.

    Takes a bit of practice though.

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  3. #13
    cjbecker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Medium Format
    The last wedding I shot was with a hassy and 3 a12 backs. Shot 12 rolls which was 108 frames and I presented 105. (flash did not fire) They were not looking for a high volume shooting and liked my work. They could not of been happier.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    SF Bay Area, California, US
    Multi Format
    Depending on which Hasselblad lens you have, focus can be hard.
    In the old C lenses, especially if not serviced, the grease is 40 years old, and probably dry. So turning the focusing ring will be hard and slow, it needs a CLA.
    For action, you use depth of field to compensate for focusing errors. You also try to prefocus on a location where you thing the subject will go.

    Like learning a new skill, it just takes practice, to get your brain and muscles working together.

    Also knowing some of the tricks would help.
    We used to use the "sunny 16" and practice shooting w/o using a meter. We would walk about look at a scene and based on the sunny 16 rule set the exposure.
    We also trained our hands.
    - which way to turn the aperture ring for min and max aperture
    - set the aperture to a specific setting w/o looking
    - Which way to turn the shutter speed dial
    - set the speed w/o looking at the camera
    - as you walked about, we would adjust the aperture and shutter speed for the lighting, so the exposure was set before we raised the camera

    - which way to turn the focus to infinity
    - from infinity how much to turn to reach 10 feet w/o looking at the lens
    - you look at a subject and turn the focus ring, the focus was pretty close before the camera is raised, and all you do is fine tune the focus. Or just shoot and let depth of field take care of the focus miss.

    - you learned to estimate distance with your eye. (another perishable skill)
    - Then set the focus on the cameras w/o looking thru the viewfinder. Like on the old folding cameras. Looking thru the viewfinder was just to confirm or fine tune the focus.
    - This also how we set the exposure for manual flash. Estimate distance, set the aperture based on the distance, shoot. This was actually more reliable than the auto flashes, as distance was independent of the scene, which could/did and does fool an auto flash.

    You also had to train your eye to know what a focused image looks like.
    And to focus the lens quickly, not take minutes hunting back and forth trying to get the lens focused.
    I found that many people cannot focus a camera or projector for a SHARP image. They get close, but it still is NOT in focus.
    For these people, autofocus is a blessing.

    You were one with your camera.

    But these were/are perishable skills, you had to keep practicing or you would loose some of the skills.
    I can still set the shutter speed and aperture, but I can't set the focus w/o looking.
    Today I cannot look at a scene and tell you the exposure. I can only do that for bright sunlight, the easy part of the sunny 16 rule. Shadow, shade, deep shade, overcast, etc, I can't do it.

  5. #15
    rmolson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Mansfield Ohio
    Medium Format
    The sunny 16 rule was easy to remember if you observe the light according to the clouds and shadows cast by the sun generally from mid morning to mid afternoon
    Bright sun hard edged shadows f/16
    Hazy sun soft edged shadows open one stop f/11
    Cloudy bright no shadows open another stop f/8
    Cloudy dark dim open another stop f/5.6
    But at this point hard to judge, might need to meter
    Open shade open one stop from f/16
    Closed shade open two stops f/11
    Sidelight open one stop f/11
    Back light open two stops f/8
    This is especially useful when working on the run or if the camera metering is questionable. The sun is a constant one can count on.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin