I called Allied in GR, they only run film one day/week IF they have enough orders on hand to warrant turning on the machine. They told me during the summer months it might take two months to accumulate enough film to process it. I did send a roll of 35mm & a roll of 120 to North Coast Photo Saturday by Priority Mail. Got a shipping notice from them Wed & according to the tracking number I should have it tomorrow (Fri). I can live with 1 week turn around. Cost $40.45 for developing, enhanced scanning, paging negatives & Priority Mail return postage. About twice what the 1 hour labs charge but I hope much better quality & much larger scans - plus the 1 hour labs don't do 120 anyhow. So when I figure in $5/roll for film & $5.75 to send the two rolls out I'm at $56.20 total, which figures out to about $0.78/exposure for 36mm and $2.61/exposure for 120.
Canon EOS 20D; Canon EF-S 18-55/4-5.6, Tamron Aspherical 28-200/3.8-5.6, Helios 44M 58/2.0 w/EOS chipped adapter
Konica T3, T3N, T4, FT-1 Motor; Konica Hexanon AR 21/4, 24/2.8, 50/1.4, 50/1.7, 57/1.2 (5!), 85/1.8, 100/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4, Zoom Hexanon 28-135/4-4.6, 80-200/4, Macro Hexanon 55/3.5, Teleconverter AR 2X, Super Lentar 35/2.8, Pheonix 500/8 Mirror
Mamiya RB67 Pro SD; Mamiya Sekor 90mm f/3.5 KL, 127mm f/3.5 KL; Waist Level Finder; Prism Finder
Great Kit, I have been building my RB kit for a while now, and aside from doing the light seals on my backs, its been a workhorse.
That's one of the best cameras I ever owned and it took some of my favorite shots.
I particularly liked the 140mm Macro lens for still life, about $250 at KEH for one in excellent condition. This one is also ideal for portraits.
I traded it for a Hasselblad only because of the weight.
What does "K/L" mean on a Mamiya lens?
I keep running into this and I am wondering what it mens...
I saw your comment about tripods. I use a Feisol CT-3301 and a ballhead with both my RB67 and 4x5 without any issues at all. I know many who have 4x5 and like using pan heads too. But, I've used a ballhead for years without issues to date.
Really Big Cameras
Also, for film processing if you're already shipping to the west coast you might try Samy's Camera in Santa Barbara CA. I've used them for years and have NEVER had any issue at all including turn around time.
Samy's Camera Santa Barbara
614 Chapala Street
Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Last edited by Trail Images; 01-07-2014 at 06:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I've had my RB67 Pro S for about 4 months, and it has become my go to camera for pretty much everything. I've comfortably hiked 4 miles with it on 2 occasions, and find I can hand hold it fine at shutter speeds of 1/30 sec. or greater. For tripod work I use a Bogen/Manfrotto 3251 with a 3047 3-way head. The extension tubes are a nice addition if you plan on doing any macro work, tubes 1&2 with the 90mm will get minimum focus down to approximately 2.75".
I like my RB67 as well, but it barely sees any film through her anymore.
I've moved on to a C330F. I think the image quality of the RB is downright amazing but it lacks the portability for me to be willing to bring her places.
Now, I carry an M6 and the C330 with a meter, Japan Camera Hunter film holders (35 and 120), filters, a pad, and pen all in my Billingham Hadley Pro.
It's always in the car, always by my side.
It means that it is the latest-generation of design for an RB body. It is similar to seeing W-N on an RZ lens. All of the better (e.g. floating elements) new lenses will be K/L.
Originally Posted by vbernu
The letters mostly don't seem to be an acronym for anything that I can tell. They (approximately) go as follows:
- C: mechanical shutter, original RB lens
- K/L: newer version, for RB
- Z: electronic shutter, for RZ
- W: for RZ
- W-N: newer version, for RZ
- M-LA: floating element, for RZ
- SF: soft focus
- ULD: ultra low dispersion
- APO: apochromatic
Congratulations on your purchase! I bought a similar kit two months ago, a minty ProSD with 90KL, brand new 127KL, two SD backs and a minty L2 prism. I would highly recommend the adjustable grip, it makes it far far easier to hold, especially as the straps are probably the most annoying setup ever. It also gives you a much nicer grip when focusing close as the camera gets very nose heavy. I use the grip and have a BlackRapid attached to it for when I want to hang it from my shoulder. I also just bought a mint 65KL, looking forward to checking it out.
I love the SD, since buying it I haven't used my Hasselblad much, more to do with learning the beast as I do love my Hassy but it is interesting to see how each has its place.
Have/had Mamiya RB, Rollei 6003, Hasselblad, Nikonos, Canon EOS, Leica R, Fuji Instax...and some other stuff