Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,296   Posts: 1,535,723   Online: 869
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. #11
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    SE Australia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,544
    Images
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    You get used to it

    Just think, you're supporting the film industry! The next stop is 70mm backs, that gets you about 60 frames of 6x7 on a roll...

    Ugh—! 60!!? That's a God-awful amount of printing and framing. It's tough enough a task to work through (physically and financially) with just 10 frames...
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






  2. #12
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,226
    Images
    12
    Sure. Nothing says you need to print and mount every single frame; it allows you to more-easily take photos with higher risk of failure (e.g. unpredictably-moving objects (children!) and shallow DOF) and not care that you missed a good fraction of them. Or you can just load the camera once every month or two, whatever.

  3. #13
    f/16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    You get used to it

    Just think, you're supporting the film industry! The next stop is 70mm backs, that gets you about 60 frames of 6x7 on a roll...
    No, I'll be happy with 120 film. Got the 2 test rolls back today. Those images are huge! You don't need the loupe unless you want to see some fine detail. I got a couple of underexposed(about 1 stop)images with the 165 lens wide open, but not stopped down. Now I need to run another test roll and see if it something I did wrong the first time(hope that's all it is )

    And another thing-DOF is insanely shallow. I'm afraid I will have a lower percentage of shots in sharp focus.
    Bill

    Pentax 645, Pentax 6X7MLU, and many Nikons-F2 Photomic F2AS FM2N N2000 N6000 N6006 Nikomat FTN

  4. #14
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,226
    Images
    12
    Yes, you must be very careful with the focus! f/2.8 on 6x7 is about the same DOF as f/1.4 on 35mm but small errors are more obvious because they're no longer hidden by the grain.

  5. #15
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    SE Australia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,544
    Images
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by f/16 View Post
    No, I'll be happy with 120 film. Got the 2 test rolls back today. Those images are huge! You don't need the loupe unless you want to see some fine detail. I got a couple of underexposed(about 1 stop)images with the 165 lens wide open, but not stopped down. Now I need to run another test roll and see if it something I did wrong the first time(hope that's all it is )

    And another thing-DOF is insanely shallow. I'm afraid I will have a lower percentage of shots in sharp focus.

    f22 to f32 (and a tripod!) for anything at all beyond 3m with the 165mm lens. That lens is capable of exceptionally sharp results but you must accord it respect with technique. Remember the 165LS was designed as a portrait lens, and it works brilliantly as such with its shallow depth of field. In the landscape context though you need to think further away...

    What's with the underexposures? Lever to Auto on the lens; no need for stopped-down use, if that's what you've inadvertently done...
    Whenever you have an image under- or over-exposed by the camera's own meter, repeat the sane scene but meter it with a handheld meter. Record the results. It's possible to get wonky results with hand-held metering too! Repeat errors may indicate a problem with the aperture coupling of the lens, the camera's own meter (if it is fitted with the TTL meter) or not setting the aperture values to the click stops. Remember the 5-stop range of the onboard meter: 2.5 Stops up and down from centre, so even a slight rise or dip of the meter reflects a change in exposure.
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






  6. #16
    AgX
    AgX is offline

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Germany
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    8,531
    I got several 35mm cameras where the original light seals are only short patches where one would expect complete sealing.

    The reason for this is not clear to me. Maybe the design did not foresee patches at all, but leaks ocurred and complete sealing hampered easy closing of the back.

  7. #17
    destroya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    san jose
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    261
    Quote Originally Posted by f/16 View Post
    .........And another thing-DOF is insanely shallow. I'm afraid I will have a lower percentage of shots in sharp focus.
    I'm going through the same growing pains right now, but happy to have something new to work on.

  8. #18
    f/16's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by Poisson Du Jour View Post

    What's with the underexposures? Lever to Auto on the lens; no need for stopped-down use, if that's what you've inadvertently done...
    Whenever you have an image under- or over-exposed by the camera's own meter, repeat the sane scene but meter it with a handheld meter. Record the results. It's possible to get wonky results with hand-held metering too! Repeat errors may indicate a problem with the aperture coupling of the lens, the camera's own meter (if it is fitted with the TTL meter) or not setting the aperture values to the click stops. Remember the 5-stop range of the onboard meter: 2.5 Stops up and down from centre, so even a slight rise or dip of the meter reflects a change in exposure.
    I have the non metered prism and was using my handheld meter. I'm going to shoot another test roll and hopefully it was something I did wrong and the camera's fine.

    About the shallow DOF-now that will lead to some creative possibilities that can't be done with 35mm and APS-C digital.
    Last edited by f/16; 08-08-2013 at 06:27 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Added last sentence
    Bill

    Pentax 645, Pentax 6X7MLU, and many Nikons-F2 Photomic F2AS FM2N N2000 N6000 N6006 Nikomat FTN

  9. #19
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    SE Australia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,544
    Images
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by f/16 View Post
    [...]
    About the shallow DOF-now that will lead to some creative possibilities that can't be done with 35mm and APS-C digital.


    ...Unless you have a tilt/shift lens in 35mm allowing exquisite adjustment of DoF and planar alignment.
    You can then pull off a minor miracle...
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin