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  1. #11
    jp498's Avatar
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    K4B2 is what I used. The shutter speed doesn't go up as far as 500, so I think the website could be incomplete or wrong. I also have a k4b which does not go to 500.

  2. #12

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    Nice to see someone else shooting film at LRP. I was up there shooting with my Canon P for the Vintage Festival over Labor Day - I saw another guy using an M3 with Summicron that day as well. I was focusing on primarily detail shots rather than on-track action this time (I have a lot of track shots from years past). I've never taken my Rolleiflex up there, but I probably should - I think there's a VSCCA in a couple weekends.

    Look forward to seeing the photos. Here's a couple of mine from the Vintage Fest (hope you don't mind; I'll happily remove them if you prefer - just let me know).



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  3. #13
    jp498's Avatar
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    Don't mind a bit.

    I mostly shot tmy2 B&W in the camera. I did shoot a roll of portra 160 as well. Here's one from that roll:


    http://www.flickr.com/photos/13759696@N02/10052132026/

    The tessar lens and the timeless driving suit style make the driver look like he could step into a 917 just as easily as his newer daytona prototype car. This is Alex Popow, who's team chose me to be a photographer for that weekend.

    I didnt' make it to the historics/vintage this year I went last year and had a blast; I think I like the historics better than contemporary stuff. It's stuff legends and posters are made of.
    Here's from that:

  4. #14

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    I agree completely about the vintage stuff being more compelling. It's always amazing to me to see how hard they race those cars. The fact that LRP is largely unchanged over the years makes it easy to feel like you're back 50 years ago when they were racing the first time around.
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  5. #15
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp498 View Post
    K4B2 is what I used. The shutter speed doesn't go up as far as 500, so I think the website could be incomplete or wrong. I also have a k4b which does not go to 500.
    Try to set the speed to 1/500 before you wind the film advance crank. My 2.8C Xenotar will not go to 1/500 after I've advanced the film crank if already set to a different speed...my others do but not that one.
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    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  6. #16
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  7. #17
    Jeff L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Try to set the speed to 1/500 before you wind the film advance crank. My 2.8C Xenotar will not go to 1/500 after I've advanced the film crank if already set to a different speed...my others do but not that one.
    My Automat type 1 is the same. Set shutter to 1/500 sec before winding.

  8. #18
    jp498's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Try to set the speed to 1/500 before you wind the film advance crank. My 2.8C Xenotar will not go to 1/500 after I've advanced the film crank if already set to a different speed...my others do but not that one.
    I'll try that. It'll be tough as that's an involuntary motion for me to wind the camera after taking a photo.

  9. #19

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    I think that with a lot of the older Compur shutters, whatever the format (later MF ones may be different) generally it is best practice, and more gentle on the mechanism to set the shutter speed first then cock the shutter, as different springs/gears engage at different speeds.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dkirk View Post
    I think that with a lot of the older Compur shutters, whatever the format (later MF ones may be different) generally it is best practice, and more gentle on the mechanism to set the shutter speed first then cock the shutter, as different springs/gears engage at different speeds.
    It is best to set first, then charge, but from what I've seen taking a bunch of Compurs apart, the fastest speed appears to be the only one that engages a separate spring (you can often feel resistance as the cam engages when you turn to the fastest speed). Based on my understanding of the shutter, changing between standard speeds (anything from 1/25 to 1/250) with the shutter charged shouldn't place undue stress on a properly-functioning mechanism. Of course if you've got an Old Standard like mine, advancing the film and charging the shutter are two separate actions, so it's a bit of a non-issue for me.
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