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  1. #1
    rubyfalls's Avatar
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    Mamiya 645 pro TL and Delta 3200

    Hey y'all - I am wondering what ISO setting I should use when shooting with Delta 3200. I just developed my first roll, set at 3200 and developed as such and the negatives seem rather thin. Would it be better to set the ISO at 1600? Or change develop time? For the record, I mostly use slower film and have only shot and developed maybe 6 rolls of 3200 speed. Thanks for any insight.


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  2. #2
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    So, how do the prints look?
    Yeah, that's really what you need to look at before you make a judgement.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #3
    rubyfalls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    So, how do the prints look?
    Yeah, that's really what you need to look at before you make a judgement.
    True. My first attempts at making prints off of 3200 speed negatives were...well, they were prints. Embarrassingly bad, not even something grandparents would love. But that was several rolls ago. When these dry, I'll scan and see what I see. This is also the first time I've shot faster film on a camera with a working light meter. And ISO settings that go that high.

    A dumb question, perhaps, but do faster speed negatives generally look thinner than slower speed? Should I not freak out so quickly? Are Red Vines really superior to Twizzlers? So. Many. Questions...


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  4. #4
    Chris Lange's Avatar
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    Set it to 1600 and develop for 1600, or set it for 1600 and -1 exp. compensation if the camera doesn't go up to 3200. Develop for the times given for 6400...or more.

    I shoot at 6400 and develop Delta 3200 for 24-27 minutes in full strength D76.

    I get good contrast range and nice tones with this method.

    See my work at my website CHRISTOPHER LANGE PHOTOGRAPHY

    or my snaps at my blog MINIMUM DENSITY
    --
    If you don't have it, then you don't have it.

  5. #5
    rubyfalls's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Lange View Post
    Set it to 1600 and develop for 1600, or set it for 1600 and -1 exp. compensation if the camera doesn't go up to 3200. Develop for the times given for 6400...or more.

    I shoot at 6400 and develop Delta 3200 for 24-27 minutes in full strength D76.

    I get good contrast range and nice tones with this method.

    Thank you! And lovely picture. I've never used D76, only DD-X and ID-11; maybe that is my problem?


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  6. #6
    Terry Christian's Avatar
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    ID-11 is D76.

  7. #7
    Chris Lange's Avatar
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    Must correct a tiny error, meant to say "set it to 1600 and develop for 3200".

    nb. That only applies if you're one of those ninnies that prints everything at like a grade 2 (and even then that's too contrasty) and never does anything interesting.

    I always preferred shooting the stuff at 3200 or 6400 and developing for 23-27 minutes depending. I generally use a 4.5 or 5 to exaggerate micro contrast when printing these negatives, and dodge/burn/use cutouts to hold back shadows as necessary so as not to lose them entirely.

    People say a Pentax 6x7 has mirror bounce and not to use it handheld. I use mine handheld at night with Delta 3200. Same for my Hasselblad.
    See my work at my website CHRISTOPHER LANGE PHOTOGRAPHY

    or my snaps at my blog MINIMUM DENSITY
    --
    If you don't have it, then you don't have it.

  8. #8
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubyfalls View Post
    True. My first attempts at making prints off of 3200 speed negatives were...well, they were prints. Embarrassingly bad, not even something grandparents would love. But that was several rolls ago. When these dry, I'll scan and see what I see. This is also the first time I've shot faster film on a camera with a working light meter. And ISO settings that go that high.

    A dumb question, perhaps, but do faster speed negatives generally look thinner than slower speed? Should I not freak out so quickly? Are Red Vines really superior to Twizzlers? So. Many. Questions...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Chris's advice is great as a starting place with Delta 3200. Basically develop +1 from wherever you shot. Shoot 1600 develop 3200, shoot 3200 develop 6400. Season to taste from there.

    Delta 3200 is really a 1000 iso film that pushes really, really well. That doesn't mean it defies the laws of physics. Detail is lost as exposure is reduced so thin is relative.

    With that in mind I typically find that most people try to print high EI shots to light, placing faces like they would be in daylight. Brightness isn't the same as lightness; printing darker many times makes a face look brighter for me. In fact brightness is defined more by contrast/appearance than the actual density on paper.

    And I do prefer Red Vines.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  9. #9
    chriscrawfordphoto's Avatar
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    I get great results from Delta 3200, exposed at 3200 and developed for 3200. No need to develop for the next higher speed as so many suggest. You should be aware though that this film does not work well in most developers, and that may be the origin of the idea of overdeveloping it. Develop it in Tmax Developer or DDX.

    Chris Crawford
    Fine Art Photography of Indiana and other places no one else photographs.

    http://www.chriscrawfordphoto.com

    My Tested Developing Times with the films and developers I use

    Become a fan of my work on Facebook

    Fort Wayne, Indiana

  10. #10

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    review ilfords time and ISO figures and your technique or use 800 ISO you need silver in shadows that you want to have details in. If film is clear it is underexposed...

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