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Thread: Light meter

  1. #21

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    I think something that is also important is simplicity, which is why I believe the pentax digital spot is still in high demand. I recently picked one up and it just clicked. The speed, simplicity and consistency in which I was able to pre visualize my exposures felt almost like magic. I was stumbling around trying to use the zone system with a incandescent meter and was only getting a third of the info I needed. I believe the sekonic spot meters would be a good option but they just had a ton of options that I would never use and don't need to be stumbling around to find the information that I need.

  2. #22

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    How about a Minolta IIIF


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  3. #23

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    What are color light meters? I saw this Gossen luna pro 3f very expensive.


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  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raffay View Post
    What are color light meters? I saw this Gossen luna pro 3f very expensive.


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    https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...perature+meter

    should bought an Ann Droid

  5. #25
    Alan Klein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raffay View Post
    How about a Minolta IIIF


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    I use a Minolta IIIf with my RB67. It broke recently after 20+ years so I replaced it with another IIIf from ebay for around US$85. I also have a ten degree spot attachment for it. (There is also a 5 degree spot attachment availavle.) As you probably know its both incident and reflective and the f stand for flash readings. So you can use it in a sudio. It averages too. The only problem is there is no on off switch so the battery will drain if you leave it in for too many weeks. I believe the IVf has a power on-off switch. Verify that on-line. Here are pictures I've taken using that meter. But I must confess I also bracket my landscape shots. http://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/tags/rb67/

  6. #26

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    Is there a difference between ambient and incident metering?


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  7. #27

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    Also, I have read online that incident meters use the dome which is already 18% calibrated so you don't need to use a grey card as u would in reflective. Is that true, if that is true then don't you guys think it would be better to get incident or ambient if they are the same. So what are the options in that?


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  8. #28
    Jaf-Photo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Klein View Post
    I use a Minolta IIIf with my RB67. It broke recently after 20+ years so I replaced it with another IIIf from ebay for around US$85. I also have a ten degree spot attachment for it. (There is also a 5 degree spot attachment availavle.) As you probably know its both incident and reflective and the f stand for flash readings. So you can use it in a sudio. It averages too. The only problem is there is no on off switch so the battery will drain if you leave it in for too many weeks. I believe the IVf has a power on-off switch. Verify that on-line. Here are pictures I've taken using that meter. But I must confess I also bracket my landscape shots. http://www.flickr.com/photos/alanklein2000/tags/rb67/
    Alan, you've got outstanding results with both positive and negative film. I'm using the same scanner but my results are nowhere near, at least not for negative film.

    It would be great to hear something about your workflow sometime?

  9. #29
    andrew.roos's Avatar
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    Ambient means the light meter is designed to meter light from a continuous source like the sun. The alternative to ambient metering is flash metering, which measures the short bright pulse of light from a flash (strobe). Most flash meters will also measure ambient.

    Incident metering means you measure the light falling on you subject, rather than the light reflected by your subject. In order to do this, you need to be able to meter where your subject is - easy enough for most portraits, but not so easy if you are shooting a distant mountain.

    The alternative to incident metering is reflected light metering, which measures the light reflected by your subject. This is convenient for distant subjects, but can be tricky with high contrast subjects as the reading depends on how much of the bright areas and how much of the dark areas the meter sees. A spot meter solves this problem by metering from a very small area of the subject.

    Personally I prefer incident metering for nearby subjects, unless they are especially tricky, in which case I may use spot metering. I generally use spot metering for landscapes.

    An 18% gray card allows you to measure incident light with a reflected light meter. I think it's easier just to use an incident meter (with the dome).

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    Last edited by andrew.roos; 02-26-2014 at 11:37 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "There are no rules for good photographs, there are only good photographs" (Ansel Adams)

  10. #30

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    Incident can be used for landscape as long as you're in the same light. IE: you won't get proper exposure if you're in the shade and the subject's in the sun or vice versa.

    Distance has no effect.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

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