I am getting a Mamiya RZ67 PRO II, yes I am very excited!!! Since I would be using the WLF, I assume I would have to meter independently. Any suggestions for a good light meter, I always wanted a Pentax spot meter but it is way outside budget for now, any cheaper alternative that will do the job decently.
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I like the gossen luna pro F, also known a the lunasix f. You can get attachments that narrow it to 15 and 7 degree. Thats not the 1 degree you get from a spot, but you can get a set for not too much with patience. It uses 9 volt batteries, does ambient, incident and flash metering.
You could also use a Nikon F80 / N80 that has matric/spot/center weight if you have any nikon AF lenses.
"If its not broken, I can't afford it."
Here's my thought. If you plan to spend a lot of money to buy a very good camera, spend a bit more to buy a decent meter. A good light meter is a purchase for life. That is, buy a good meter - even if it costs a bit more than you planned to spend - and you never have to buy another.
I bought a Sekonic L-508 about 10 years ago. It's an excellent meter. It can do reflective, incident, spot and flash. I think the newer model is the L-558, but the L-508 is so good that there is no reason to replace it.
The Gossen meters also are very highly rated.
I am also using a much older meter from the 1960s-70s - a Zeiss Ikon Ikophot T.
I have a Polaris Dual 5 (incident and spot meter), it's not as well made as the sekonic but quite a bit cheaper. It seems to be holding up after a year of careful use. You get what you pay for.
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The most important thing with any light meter is not that it is accurate to 1/10th stop, how many buttons or accessories it has nor its price. THE most important thing is that it is CONSISTENT. I have been using Weston meters all of my life and they have always been consistent and, in my opinion, respond to different colours in a very similar way to film. My current meter is a Weston V but I also still have several Weston III meters that still work well (albeit the dial is harder to read now that I am getting on a bit). You will also find that the Weston Meter instruction manuals give a great deal of in-depth advice about exposure and reveal how useful the dial on the meter can be. Have a look here:
The key to using a Weston meter is to get very close to the area you want to meter (in my case the most important shadow area where I wish to maintain detail) or, if this is not possible, then meter in close on some area that is equivalent to what you would like to meter but is out of range.
Whilst you may yearn after a Pentax Spotmeter, it generally is not needed and, if used incorrectly, can give you false readings. Also, every spot meter that uses a lens needs to be specifically tested to find out how the internal flare of the spot meter varies from that in your camera (thereby giving inaccurate exposures). Generally, making some form of light shade (such as attaching the inner portion of a toilet roll) can improve the working qualities of most spot meters.
You should be able to find a working model of the Weston V meter for around $30 on auction sites.
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If you don't plan on using flash then I recommend the Gossen Luna-Pro SBC because:
1. It is one of the most sensitive light meters available, great for pre-dawn and after-dusk photography.
2. It has a 1/5/10 degree spot attachment that, although bulky, works very well and that was much cheaper for me than a dedicated spot meter.
3. I love the way the meter reads 3 EV above to 3 EV below the current dial setting. This is great for Zone System use as you can place a reading where you want to and then see where other readings fall.
4. It uses a standard 9V PP3 battery not a mercury cell like many older meters.
5. It has other funky attachments like the Lab adapter that allows it to measure light levels on an enlarger baseboard making it a poor person's densitometer.
If you need flash then the Luna-pro F recommended above is the same meter with built in flash but it is a few EV less sensitive and won't take the more esoteric attachments like the 1/5/10 degree spot meter.
Last edited by andrew.roos; 02-24-2014 at 10:52 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Bronica ETRSi, Nikon F3 and FM.
The Pentax Digital Spotmeter is hard to beat;no wonder AAliked it so much;highlt recommend it;get a used one if you can;You won't be sorry.
Originally Posted by Raffay
I use a couple of differnt meters, Luna Pro, Weston Ranger 9, Weston Master IV, and old Soilgaer 1% spot meter when I am in zone frame of mind. Of late the Weston IV has been my main meter. I agree the other posts, buy a good modern meter.
Well a Weston II or III is so cheap that you can have one in every gbag.
They don't need batteries and can do reflective, incident and zone...
They don't do moonlight shadows...
-I have use many of them and i have now the Lunasix f and the sekonic studio deluxe.
-I take always now the sekonic for many reasons, no need a battery, have this big analog disc with needle which is very important for understand the light from shadows to high light as the needle moves, its small, best ergonomic ever, excellent quality from the past (as always..), the only problem its not good for low light (every light meter with celinium cell),but if you use it outdoor its the best.
-If you see the directors in cinematography all have one like this in their neck, they now better.. (a hundred meters of film is very expensive for every wrong..).
Last edited by alexfoto; 02-24-2014 at 11:20 AM. Click to view previous post history.