Zeiss Ikon Box Tengor 54-2 1928-1934 How to wind 6x9 Film / Red Window use
I want to know if modern films for example Fuji 400 H are suitable to use red window of that camera. Would I see numbers at that red window and I want to ask how will I wind per 6x9 ? I am not using roll film for a long time and I totally forgot what would I see at the window ?
Mustafa Umut Sarac
Take a look on this link: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/photo...oad%20120.html
All will work ok, position of red window on specific camera will automatically show numbers for according sizes (6x9 or 6x6, 6x45).
all 120 film will work in that camera .. bw or colour
as long as the camera is for 120 film ... and not 116 or 620 &c
put the film in the bacl and begin winding it in the
take up spool ..
close the back
there are numbers on the film ... maybe dots or dashes before the numbers ...
wind until you see a 1 .. you will have 8 images / roll.
the placement of the window shows the right series of dots to evenly space your photographs ..
so just expose and wind to the next number ...
if you worry about the ruby window get black tape and put it over the red and
remove it only when you wind. ive been using an agfa sureshot probably from 1935-6
for a dozen years with any film i could find and no problems ( except the inexpensive construction of the camera )
I have not used Fuji 400 H but do use ILFORD HP5 Plus in cameras with the red windows. ILFORD print the numbers and warning rings quite faintly so they do not burn through onto the emulsion and very effective that proves to be. However, it is an easy matter to either tape over the window after each winding on or to make a simple cover out of Velcro. Like in here: http://freepdfhosting.com/12d9697a5a.pdf
What you see in the window with ILFORD films is as follows:
After engaging the paper leader in the take-up spool and winding on sufficiently to be sure the paper is pulling long from the loaded spool, simply close and lock the back.
Wind on and you will see a thick black line go past the window, keep winding.
Next you will see a series of boldly printed black arrows, keep winding.
Next you will see a small ring faintly printed
Then a second bigger
Then a third bigger still
Then a fourth even bigger
Immediately followed by the frame number, whereupon you stop winding when the number is centrally positioned in the window.
After exposure simply wind on repeating the sequence from the small ring stage above.
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My girlfriend has one of those cameras and shoots Kodak Tri-X with it, but has also shot some Fuji 400H color neg film as well as some Kodak 400 Portra.
We have had no problems with numbers showing through the backing paper, unless we use Foma film (or Efke in the past).
Her camera has one of those little sliding metal covers that you open to see the film frame number, and close again immediately. If you don't have one, some gaffer's tape and a piece of opaque material will do the trick. Always advance to the next frame by shading the camera.
It's a wonderful 'no nonsense' camera, and those 6x9 negs print beautifully up to 16x20 inch size, at least good enough to get high remarks from the curatorial staff in the photography department at the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. The lens is soft, and has lots of flare, but you can certainly use that to your advantage. Long exposures yields really beautiful, ethereal prints.
Last edited by Thomas Bertilsson; 03-11-2014 at 10:59 AM. Click to view previous post history.
"Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank
"Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman
"...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh
Yes, it should work fine with modern films. I have the model before this (1926-28 vintage) and have no problems with modern films. I would suggest that you keep the red window covered somehow, as others suggest, in case your model does not have the sliding door over the red window.
I too, have used Fuji 400 H in a 1936 Zeiss Ikon Nettar.
Sometimes I forget to slide the metal cover over the red window. No problems so far.
In summer, better to use 100 iso because the limits of this camera are 1/125 sec and f/22.
So I am preferring Ektar 100.
Last edited by wombat2go; 03-11-2014 at 11:50 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Thank you very much for all replies.
Ian Grant reported , in 45 celcius Med sun , his red window cameras never effected the film. If it would , it might be reported loud in the history of that 90 years.
I think nothing goes precise but some luck. I read there is only 2.5 centimeters margin in all film. I would not want to harm the frames and I will use last frame as a loss.
Problem , what I would want to take pictures. Due to high expense of film and there is only one trustable lab , I will use to take pictures of interiors of mosques and byzantine churches. This is my long going wish and I will shoot Iznik Ceramics of 16 and 17th century and gold leafed mosaics of byzantine churches. I saw some excellent glowing at dark , extremelly classy colors at churches with that camera and I will use for that.
I have 6x7 mamiya back and 6 kilograms heavy Fluro Ektar and When I finish the body , I am hoping to take some extraordinary portraits and interiors.
Thank you ,
Can you please ask easier questions ? One Apug members request .