On Box Tengor Lens, Does quality vary in 54/2 production line ?
I had been opened a thread on Box Tengor 54/2 and someone wrote that he has many box tengors and lens quality varies.
I bought a 54/2 and I saw some great and some annoying pictures from the camera at web.
My sister will be here in 3 weeks and
I have only 2 rolls of 400H Fuji came from amazon.
Before dissapointment , I want to ask , if the lens is looks ok , is there a chance for low quality production ?
Can you please ask easier questions ? One Apug members request .
my guess, maybe a poor one, maybe right on
is that you might only know by testing with film.
do you have any photo paper?
you can make a paper negative
by putting a sheet of photo paper in
the camera instead
of film. expose it 1/5 second in bright sun f 16
( or equiv. with what your camera offers, maybe B in open shade for 1 second )
develop the paper negative, and scan and invert it and see what your lens quality is.
i have heard good things about that camera, but some like box cameras some thing they are junk
so your mileage may vary
good luck !
ps you can also put paper in the camera, leave shutter open on T for 1 hour, maybe 2
mid day sun, there will be an image on the paper, scan it, and invert it and see what the lens offers that way too ..
the original photographers were made this way "retina prints"
silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
artwork often times sold for charity
PM me for details
I have two 56/2 box tengors. Both are identical in function and quality of image. Perhaps I am lucky. Shutter speed on 56/2 in only 1/30 of a second with about a 105mm lens, so I use a tripod.
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I own a 54/2 Tengor and while the lens is sharp, the innards are causing me problems. I'm getting scratches on the film running completely through the frame. I may have found the trouble with one of the rollers on either side of the film gate. A few tweaks to that and hopefully my problem is solved. I hope so, the look I get from the lens is really different and interesting. I find 100 ISO film is ideal with this camera.
I remember what it was now.
With the prewar 6x9 cameras, there are three distance settings: Close, middle and infinity.
You will get the sharpest photos, if you set the lens to the middle distance. When I set it at infinity, the photos were soft. But when set at the middle distance, the photos were sharper. For closeups, go ahead and set to the close setting.
I noticed this oddity when I was checking the collimation of the camera. Yes, a box camera. I noticed that when I set the lens at the middle distance, it appeared to be a bit sharper than when set at infinity. So I set out to prove whether this was the case, and it was true.
This appeared to be the case for all of the Box Tengors that I encountered that offered distance settings. The very early cameras don't offer that option.
For the postwar camera with the coated lens, use the distance settings as you normally would.
By the way, I see a Tengoflex sold on eBay recently (early 2014) for US$700.
Here are two photos to show what I mean. You can see how the infinity setting is softer.
The middle distance offered better depth of field, too. Look at the parking meter and the buildings in the distance.
Left photo: Lens set to middle distance
Right photo: Lens set to infinity
Last edited by elekm; 03-18-2014 at 10:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Age of the camera will make a difference - actually, the age of the lens. Some of the glasses that Schott supplied to Carl Zeiss in the 1930s have not aged at all well. The lens in my Tenax I has become visibly white with age. Even without visible deterioration, definition loss is likely.
Whoa, that might be my problem with the Tengors then. I've owned more than five of various vintage and never had a good one as far as sharpness went. I had much better luck with an old Ansco Shur Shot box camera. I still have a very nice 54/2 Tengor I'm going to have to try again, only not on the farthest distance setting this time. JW
Originally Posted by elekm
one thing to consider is that on the tengor, the close and medium distance setting is achieved by putting an internal auxiliary lens behind the taking lens -- so there's a chance of introducing issues there...haze, misallignment, whatever. On mine, anyway, the far setting is just the front lens.
I believe the train foto i posted earlier was shot with the medium distance setting. the one of the train platform was set at infinity. when i blow it up it's nicely sharp.
Last edited by summicron1; 03-18-2014 at 11:33 PM. Click to view previous post history.