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  1. #11
    omaha's Avatar
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    Not sure what pricing looks like in your area. Standard advice is to look at what KEH.com is getting for the same gear, and then go (down) from there.

    A few subtleties:

    - That 50mm lens is not the (preferred) "C" version.
    - Open the WLF and see what you have. Its hard to describe the difference between the preferred and the old kind, but the preferred can be closed with one hand where the old kind has three leaves that operate independently and a much inferior magnifier. On the new kind, the magnifier fills the top of the WLF, while on the old kind it does not.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  2. #12
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Klein View Post
    How much is he asking?
    500.-- (came down from 800.--)
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  3. #13
    shutterfinger's Avatar
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    Go to MamiyaLeaf.com and select the documentation link under the Support heading to download the PDF manual for the RB67 Pro S, RB67 Pro SD or both. http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/documentation.html

  4. #14
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Avoid the original pro backs as they dont have the lock for the darkslide - this prevents the back from being removed without darkslide in place.
    The lock is visible - if you look at the film back with darkslide in, there is a small metal(aluminium? SS?) protruding at the bottom.

  5. #15
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    I got the set and some extras:
    - body Pro-S (No. C195143) ##can anyone tell me how old this camera is?##
    - revolving back
    - filmback Pro-S
    - lens Mamiya Sekor C 1:4.5 f=50 mm No. 27227 (it actually is a "C" lens after all)
    - lens Mamiya Sekor C 1:3.8 f=90 mm No. 84967
    - lens Mamiya Sekor 1:4.5 f=180 mm No. No. 20030 (not a "C" lens)
    - lens Mamiya Sekor C 1:6.3 f=360 mm No. 43374
    - Macro extension tube
    - Prism finder (metered)
    - Waist level finder (can be closed with one hand)
    - Mamiya pistol grip
    - original aluminum case
    - original focussing screen (horizontal and vertical lines)

    The camera and lenses look like new and operate very smooth. The whole set was serviced by Mamiya in Jan. 2013.
    All glass clean and as new. Only the barrel of the 180 mm lens shows serious cosmetic marks from handling.

    He's gonna send me an extra focussing screen (with grid).

    I'm very happy with this great set. I think I like the 50 mm lens best, butI'll shoot all lenses to see what it is capable of.
    The 360 mm lens is new and never used. But since I like wide angle it might not get much exercise with me either.

    BTW: I also got me a 40 mm lens for my Bronica SQ-B from him.

    I'm so happy
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  6. #16
    omaha's Avatar
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    Sounds like you did well! Enjoy your new gear!
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

  7. #17

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    Your main concern are light leaks in the bellows. Do the bright light inside, inspect for leaks in a darkroom. Everything else on the body can be repaired.

    As for lensed, fungus is a main concern. Shutters are pretty reliable n most just need a cla. Watch out for newer shutters in K lenses, they have plastic parts n if they fail, replacement shutters are expensive.

    Backs are tough n most common problem are seals. Dark slide baffled rarely fail unless someone has been pushing wet or dirty slides in em.

    The rotating back can have problems if the camera was laid on the back n bent or pushed dirt into the tits the pins live in.

    Get the manual from butkus, read n follow directions carefully.

    *if the camera won't cock or fire..... DON'T FORCE IT! The most common repairs i do are forced cameras n the most damage is always of a forced camera!

    Cock the lens n cock the body before mounting a lens.
    Last edited by paul ron; 05-20-2014 at 02:48 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.

  8. #18
    Alan Klein's Avatar
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    That's a great set. $500 for equipment that probably cost $8,000-$10,000 new when a dollar was worth a dollar.

  9. #19

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    A tip on the mirror up exposures.

    As you go through the manual take a good study of the mirror up page. You might lose an exposure or two if you don't do it right. When you wind the camera it also winds the shutter, however if you leave the MU knob turned on MU (after taking a shot) and cock the camera, the shutter will not cock. Therefore, you will trip the camera and no exposure will be made. You must return the MU knob to the regular position before you cock the shutter. Now, Mamiya made a two prong cable release for that camera, but you can use a regular single one. You trip the camera with the release button as usual, and then trip the shutter with the cable release. There is another way to trip the shutter but I don't want to confuse you. I think I have this right, but for others out there that know more about this, if I have messed this up, please correct me.

    The other thing I will warn you about is the interlocks. You will have a love-hate relationship with them at first. Just as you are about to shoot the hottest looking babe you ever saw in the vertical format, you will turn the back while you are looking at those super hot eyes, and you will turn it 85 degrees past horizontal. You will now have a camera that is jammed up tighter than a drum. You will check the winding, the release button lock, your zipper on your pants, if you left your keys in the car, and 10,000 other things. As she walks off the set, you will see you didn't turn the back all the way. Once I turned mine to vertical and because I couldn't see the film wind lever I failed to wind it. I figured it was time to send the camera in. After a while you will appreciate that this camera did not ruin a good chunk of film and caught your forgetfulness. When you get those negs back you will be blown away. Enjoy. Ric.

  10. #20
    omaha's Avatar
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    The first roll I ran through my RB came out perfectly un-exposed because I had been fiddling with the mirror-up control on the lens and left it in the wrong position.

    Oops.

    Won't make that mistake again.

    Each RB system lens has a small knob on the left hand side (from the perspective of the photographer holding the camera). You pull it out a smidge to turn it. Turn it counter-clockwise until it stops, and you will be in "regular" mode: The shutter will fire when you press the release on the body. Turn it clockwise until it stops, and you are in "mirror up" mode: The shutter will not fire when you press the release on the body. Instead you have to either (a) attach a standard cable release to the knob on the lens and use it to fire the shutter OR (b) rotate the knob counter-clockwise until the shutter fires.

    In practice, I've stopped using mirror-up mode. I only shoot portraits, and the subjects find it confusing (they hear you release the body, and think you took the shot). Mamiya made a dual remote release cable, and I might grab one of those to see how it works. In my experience, however, with the type of shooting I do, I don't have a problem with mirror-slap induced camera shake anyway.
    I shoot digital when I have to (most of those shots end up here) and film (occasionally one of those shots ends up here) when I want to.

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