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Thread: Film?

  1. #11
    chriscrawfordphoto's Avatar
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    I shoot a lot of 6x6, in a Mamiya 6 (had a Hassy for years, sold it because my health issues made carrying it too hard for me). I shoot Ilford HP5 developed in PMK for nearly everything. I have done a lot with FP4 as well if you need finer grain, though the HP5 images print beautiful.
    Chris Crawford
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    My Tested Developing Times with the films and developers I use

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  2. #12

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    As others have said, use the same films you use in 35mm. Don't forget that your shutter speeds on hasselblad will need to be faster than on 35mm. While on 35mm you would use 1/60 with 50mm lens, on blad you will need to use 1/125 with 80mm lens. I found 1/60 bit of a pot shot on my hasselblad, it's fine with bigger grain films, since it masks any vibration.

    @polyglot, Acros has finer grain than TMX, as long as it's developed in fuji microfine. I'm not sure which equivalent developer it is in western world.

  3. #13
    BradS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddie View Post
    The first thing you should shoot is whatever film/developer combo you use in 35mm. It's really the only way to get a baseline comparison, so you can see what the format change does for you, without introducing other variables.
    Exactly what I was thinking....

  4. #14

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    Try all of them. The same film will look different in 35mm and medium format so you need to try them all. Personally for colour I use Portra 160 and 400 but in B&W I will use every film Ilford makes plus a bit of Acros and TriX depending what look I want.
    Have/had Mamiya RB, Rollei 6003, Hasselblad, Nikonos, Canon EOS, Leica R, Fuji Instax...and some other stuff

  5. #15
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Film?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuff View Post
    As others have said, use the same films you use in 35mm. Don't forget that your shutter speeds on hasselblad will need to be faster than on 35mm. While on 35mm you would use 1/60 with 50mm lens, on blad you will need to use 1/125 with 80mm lens. I found 1/60 bit of a pot shot on my hasselblad, it's fine with bigger grain films, since it masks any vibration.

    @polyglot, Acros has finer grain than TMX, as long as it's developed in fuji microfine. I'm not sure which equivalent developer it is in western world.
    Interesting, honestly I didn't even realize Fuji made B&W developing chemicals...
    Last edited by StoneNYC; 08-15-2014 at 03:16 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: bandw
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Interesting, honestly I didn't even realize Fuji made B&W developing chemicals...
    Not to mention they are cheap and good.
    Fuji Microfine is the fine grain developer, Fuji Super Prodol (similar to D76, but much shorter times) is for pushing.
    I got great results from them, Microfine costs around $3.20 for 1litre (good for 8 rolls) and Super Prodol is $2.60 per 1litre (good for 10 rolls). For me they are cheapest developers I can get.

    I bet you will be even more surprised when you find out they make BW paper, but again it's Japan only. Why? I have no idea.

  7. #17
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    I use medium format (Rolleiflex and Diana F) not because I want more sharpness and smaller grain on final print - I use it because it is square format and has different look, it gives results that I can not get from 35mm. Any B&W film today is good enough, even cheapest ones.

  8. #18
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuff View Post
    Not to mention they are cheap and good.
    Fuji Microfine is the fine grain developer, Fuji Super Prodol (similar to D76, but much shorter times) is for pushing.
    I got great results from them, Microfine costs around $3.20 for 1litre (good for 8 rolls) and Super Prodol is $2.60 per 1litre (good for 10 rolls). For me they are cheapest developers I can get.

    I bet you will be even more surprised when you find out they make BW paper, but again it's Japan only. Why? I have no idea.
    Are the developers for japan only as well?

    $3 for 8 rolls isn't that cheap when Rodinal is 11 for 250 rolls, lol, HC (Ilfotec or kodak) is $35-40 for 100+ rolls etc.

    But is it like Microdol? Or something else?
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneNYC View Post
    Are the developers for japan only as well?

    $3 for 8 rolls isn't that cheap when Rodinal is 11 for 250 rolls, lol, HC (Ilfotec or kodak) is $35-40 for 100+ rolls etc.

    But is it like Microdol? Or something else?
    Yes, they are Japan only, but if you have contacts, you can get them. I got fair bit since I traveled there a lot.
    I'm in Australia not in USA. I have never used Microdol, is it fine grain? I guess it's similar then.
    We don't even have HC110 here and Ilfotec HC is $68.20, that works out to be 50 cents per roll instead 26 cents (Fuji SPD).
    D76 for 1 litre of solution costs $6.88 which is 3 times more expensive.

  10. #20
    analoguey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuff View Post
    Not to mention they are cheap and good.
    Fuji Microfine is the fine grain developer, Fuji Super Prodol (similar to D76, but much shorter times) is for pushing.
    I got great results from them, Microfine costs around $3.20 for 1litre (good for 8 rolls) and Super Prodol is $2.60 per 1litre (good for 10 rolls). For me they are cheapest developers I can get.

    I bet you will be even more surprised when you find out they make BW paper, but again it's Japan only. Why? I have no idea.
    Aha! Are they available as powder too? Mixing instructions?
    Whats the BW paper called?

    (there seems to be Japanese tradition to save the best for their local market in manufacturing. I find it interesting.)

    Sent from Tap-a-talk

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