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Thread: 612 project

  1. #11
    athanasius80's Avatar
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    Try the lens off any of the Kodak 3As. Some were rapid rectilinears, many of them had anastigmats, some were B&L Tessars. You could probably even use the whole camera for 6x12, just you'd have to make a new red window in the center back.

  2. #12
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    The 3A cameras mostly used 165 mm lenses -- that format, 3 1/4 by 5 1/2 (or 9x14 cm) has a significantly longer diagonal than even 4x5 -- and a 165 mm likely won't work on a camera that originally used 116/616 -- it would require an extension in order to set the infinity focus, and then wouldn't fit with the bed closed.

    You can get a beater 9x12 camera for $20 or so most days on eBay. That's the way to go if you don't have an original lens for this old Autographic. No, it's not a very wide angle, but any really wide angle lens is likely to be a good bit less compact than a 13.5 cm Tessar type or Cooke triplet.

  3. #13
    Murray@uptowngallery's Avatar
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    What about an old Polaroid folder (95B, 150, 160, 800)? 130 mm coated triplet lens big and squarish shell but not very deep, maybe 15 mm? (I don't have one in front of me).
    Murray

  4. #14

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    thanks for all the advice, the lens I had looked at was a super angulon which is why it won't fit I guess.I have just been looking at a ross lens on ebay, someone mentioned the lens here, I am new to the whole LF/MF thing so forgive the simple questions but what shutters will work with this lens? I am usinf the camera in low light alot with 1-5 secs being the norm so is using a cap an option?
    thanks again folks
    Gari

  5. #15

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    Which lens? Is it in a shutter or not?

    If you're using 1 to 5 second exposures I'd suggest a packard shutter. Not too expensive. Easier then a hat or lens cap. If you buy used not that expensive. Plus it's pretty easy to rig one up to handle multiple lenses.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    Haven't tried a Ross Xpres myself, but post some sample shots. I'm curious.
    Um, David, my Ensign Selfix 820 has a coated front-cell focusing 105/3.8 Xpres. Not as sharp, even when used carefully, as the uncoated 101/4.5 Ektar I use on my Graphics, so the Selfix usually stays in the drawer. I'm not as sensitive to types of blur as many here, don't see anything remarkable about the pictures I've taken with the Selfix.

    I have and have taken trial shots with a 5"/4 WA Xpres, a completely different lens. Mine is ex-Air Ministry, is fairly sharp but very, very flary. I just don't know about these things ...

    Sorry, no scans. Not that I'm anti-digital -- how can one be opposed to a tool? -- but I'm non-digital.

  7. #17

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    Gari, my ex-military 5"/4 WA Xpres in barrel won't go into a shutter. My limited experience with UK-made lenses delivered in barrel -- mainly Taylor Hobsons, some Dallmeyers, that WA Xpres, and I have an Aldis Uno coming -- is that they won't easily or inexpensively go into shutters. When attractive lenses sell at low prices, there's often a reason.

  8. #18
    Mongo's Avatar
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    I'm almost done with a similar conversion of a Kodak Autographic 3A. The Anuglon 90mm f/6.8 fits just fine. Any old Angulon or similar lens (I believe you could get 90mm Optars with similar specs) should work just fine.
    Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongo
    I'm almost done with a similar conversion of a Kodak Autographic 3A. The Anuglon 90mm f/6.8 fits just fine. Any old Angulon or similar lens (I believe you could get 90mm Optars with similar specs) should work just fine.
    I've had a 3A sitting in my closet for a couple of years now waiting for me to get around to working on it. Have you seen Bob Monaghan's 3A page ?
    He recommends glueing a thin sheet of glass in the back to keep the film flat ... did you do anything like that, or just use 120 film as-is?

    Nathan

  10. #20
    Mongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nsmith01tx
    I've had a 3A sitting in my closet for a couple of years now waiting for me to get around to working on it. Have you seen Bob Monaghan's 3A page ?
    He recommends glueing a thin sheet of glass in the back to keep the film flat ... did you do anything like that, or just use 120 film as-is?

    Nathan
    I put a thin piece of sponge behind a piece of Delrin that's been carefully sanded on the edges, with this assembly glued to the back of the camera. The sponge provides a bit of pressure without crushing the film...sort of like a pressure plate on a big spring. (Note that the left and right edges of the Delrin were sanded so the backing paper could get onto the plastic without bunching up...when I first tried this this a piece of Delrin I'd just cut out and not sanded, the paper backing would catch on the corner of the plastic.)

    I made the film channel (in front of the film) from Delrin as well. I made a channel (about 3mm wide) for the edges of the film to ride in. So far I've been able to run film thought this whole assembly and the film looks flat, but I'll have to get the project completed and do some testing before I'm absolutely sure. I don't yet have the focusing distances marked, and my film holders are temporary affairs. I still have to build the rods to hold the film and the take-up spool, get the lens distances marked, figure out what I'm going to do about film advance (red window or just count the turns of the knob), and then I'll be ready to try out the whole thing. Unfortunately, health issues are keeping me from finishing this project...I really want to get this one done.

    (Incidentally, the B&L Rapid Rectilinear lens from this camera is great on my 4x5...a real "old time" look.)
    Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.

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