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  1. #1

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    Remote flash with Hasselblad 501c/m

    (This is a new threat on this subject since the previous one became really confusion due to an unluckey title and a missunderstanding. I couldn't change the previous threat title, sorry.)

    My plan is to use a remote flash unit, and on a later stadium more than one units. I am just wondering what I need on the camera to trigger the flash.

    Also some suggestions on 'lightweight' flash units brands are welcome. I used to borrow units that where easy to take to locations, but these worked with a master-slave system and reacted to the oncamera flash.

    cheers!
    Quinten

  2. #2
    blaze-on's Avatar
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    Depending on the range either wein infrared transmitter and receivers or the pocket wizrd kit.

    If you get pocket wizard, they also have a multi-max or something that is both transmitter and reciever.
    You can fire the camera from a remote place as well.

    http://www.pocketwizard.com/
    Matt's Photo Site
    "I invent nothing, I rediscover". Auguste Rodin

  3. #3
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    This simplest method is to use a PC cord. The exact type will depend on the brand of strobe. The AlienBees model that I linked to earlier includes such a cord. I suspect many or most strobe setups do. If you have the strobe and not the cord, you should see what kind of connector the strobe or power pack takes and look for that particular cord. Paramount seems to make cords of most every type.

  4. #4
    eric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quinten

    My plan is to use a remote flash unit, and on a later stadium more than one units. I am just wondering what I need on the camera to trigger the flash.
    Quinten
    My geography sucks and I don't know much about Amsterdam. Do you guys have basketball there? I was just reading about one of the Sports Illustrated (probably know better for the swimsuit issue in other parts of the world) photographers who uses digital but he also has a bank of Hasselblad 503's set up by the net. He uses Speedetrons hooked up above with flashes and sets them off with infrared. Infrared triggers are pretty expensive. The problem with optical slaves is that someone with a disposable P&S camera will set off your flash just before you really need them and then won't be charged up for the shot you want to take .

  5. #5

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    I just learned a bit about pc cords, it seems to be cheapest solution to look into. Never imagined it could be this easy. Thanks! Now I know what's possible with my camera I'll have to look for the lights. The ones that I used to use are a bit to expensive 2000w things. Do you guys now some books/sites with some more info on this?


    cheers!
    Quinten

    PS: Eric we do have Basketball over here but it isn't as big as it is in the US, I am 6f9 so I should be playing it but only did it on the public fields so far. One of the guys from 'my field' played college basketball in the US though so we do know what it is like on your side of the ocean.

  6. #6
    127
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    I just picked up this thread doing a search, so you've probably sorted out your problems by now... However http://www.studioflash.co.uk/products.asp?cat=13 looks really promising, and very sensibly priced.

    I've not tried them - know nothing about this, but just found the site, and thought it might be worth a follow up.

    Ian

  7. #7

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    Quinten
    The PC cord solution is OK for short runs but you don't want to risk the liability of someone tripping over the cord or pulling the flash unit over. I would also think of voltage drop over a long distance and wonder if there was enough current to trip the flash units reliability.
    The IR or pocket wizard are probably better from both safety and reliability points. Both will give you excellent range without having to string wire.
    Pocket Wizard transmitters are also available in some Sekonic Flsh meters so you can check exposure without resorting to tripping the camera.



 

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