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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by df cardwell
    Xtol 'boosts' shadow speed about a full stop over Rodinal with 'normal' agitation given to both developers, and does not 'push' the film.
    But you should adjust the mechanics and make the camera behave you, so you can use the film and developer you want.
    That was my understanding of Xtol as well, that it gave an increase in "real" speed, rather than just pushing. Perhaps the laws of physics don't apply to the Great Yellow Being? We will know for sure if they eclipse lightspeed as they plunge into the Age of Entropy.

    As far as mastering the camera, I drilled out the "main stop" of the camera. Not the little swinging aperture arm, mind you, but the actual pupil that governs the maximum light admittance to the film plane. I then ran a roll of HP5 Plus through with normal development. In cloudy bright conditions, the density is good. In deeper overcast I still needed another stop or very near. This is OK with me. I am OK with being able to shoot in conditions ranging from cloudy bright to full sun. Long live Diana.

    j

    PS - I had so much fun with this one that I may attack my other Diana, which has terminal light leaks!

  2. #12
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    I would like to second the Diafine recommendation. I use it with my Holga in overcast situations or if I am using a red filter with it.

  3. #13
    Jersey Vic's Avatar
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    As of late, I've been getting results I like a great more using Ilford 3200 developed in HC-110 dilution H than I ever got pushing TX 400 in similar conditions. If the light was flat, I develop normally for 3200, more contrasty, I develop for 1600, etc. Excellent shadow detail.

  4. #14
    gandolfi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon koss
    That was my understanding of Xtol as well, that it gave an increase in "real" speed, rather than just pushing. Perhaps the laws of physics don't apply to the Great Yellow Being? We will know for sure if they eclipse lightspeed as they plunge into the Age of Entropy.

    As far as mastering the camera, I drilled out the "main stop" of the camera. Not the little swinging aperture arm, mind you, but the actual pupil that governs the maximum light admittance to the film plane. I then ran a roll of HP5 Plus through with normal development. In cloudy bright conditions, the density is good. In deeper overcast I still needed another stop or very near. This is OK with me. I am OK with being able to shoot in conditions ranging from cloudy bright to full sun. Long live Diana.

    j

    PS - I had so much fun with this one that I may attack my other Diana, which has terminal light leaks!
    the attached image was taken a winter day, using Ilford 3200 rated as about 12500iso..
    I had an orange filter in front of the lens..

    developed in Rodinal 1:25 for about 18min..

    DIANA RULES!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Diana_winter.jpg  

  5. #15
    gnashings's Avatar
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    My "normal" approach for low light situations has been TriX rated at 1000, souped in Acufine (5min I believe). Works great for my humble needs, and is very simple. My results tend to come out with a little more contrast than I usually get - but nothing to be concerned with. Admittedly, I have not tried it in a Holga/Diana type camera, but I actually have a roll of APX400 from the Holga that I know I will push up a stop given my prrior experiences, which seem to mirror yours with the Diana - ie: not enough exposure on darker days.

  6. #16
    Leon's Avatar
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    the problem with all of this is that each and every diana/ diana clone/ holga is going to give different results. It all depends on the age of the camera, how much it has been used in it's life etc. the very poor quality spring that powers the shutter gives over time so the shutter speed may slow down the more it is used/ the older the camera, and dont forget, the Great Wall Plastics company didnt pay too close an attention to quality control and calibration!

    The best thing to do is experiment with your camera untill you settle on what you find works - try a faster film on lower light days, or try a speed enhancing developer to boost the shadows (I like to use a compensating developer for my toy negs, get the best of both worlds then) - keep trying until it works. then if you get a new diana - do it all again!

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by gandolfi
    the attached image was taken a winter day, using Ilford 3200 rated as about 12500iso..
    I had an orange filter in front of the lens..

    developed in Rodinal 1:25 for about 18min..

    DIANA RULES!

    Man, that's gorgeous shot... I got butterflies in my stomach! :o

  8. #18

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    BTW, pushing the film a stop or two doesn't have to be bad on cloudy dreary days. OK, no increased shadow detail, but more punch in midtones.

    Do try the Delta 3200. It's very flat for it's speed, but you could use an orange filter or something and end up at around 1600 ISO?

  9. #19
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    If the Diana shutter is anything like the Holga you could try the reverse of a Mod i successfully attempted with my Holga -

    the shutter is a rotating disk with a hole in it like a wedge shape, I simply covered up half of the hole in the 'tangential direction' (most people will figure it out) with some cinefoil (black metal foil) to get a Holga with a shutter speed half of what had previously,

    I wanted this so i could push film a few stops to get more contrast and maybe some grain in the 120...

    In your case you could try this - or also the opposite if its just light level that is the issue by filing out a larger hole (keeping that wedge shape) - if it turns to pies and you want to go back you can use cinefoil again or perhaps fashion few disks so you can keen the original unscathed

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