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Thread: Hassie help?

  1. #1

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    Hassie help?

    Hi folks,

    I am about to take the pluge and buy a 500 'blad - cheap as chips at the moment and as long as its not been abused it'll outlive me. My question is is it worth paying more for an 01c/m over a 00c/m or even more for the 503. I don't really use flash although I do want to do some studio work in the future. For now most of what it'll be used for is 'detailed landscapes' and and interiors etc when not using the 5x4. It will enable me to get some of the shots I want for the 'farm project' with a view to making enlarged negs in the darkroom. I have had an SL66 befor now but I thought there is plenty of 'blad stuff going to come onto the market in future. Unfortunately, I have never handled a 'blad and do not know anyone who has one. I will try and have a play in a shop in town that I know has one for sale. I appreciate these things are horses for courses but a little guidance might set themind a rest somewhat!

    Thanks in advance, Carl

  2. #2
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    I've not worked much with the 500's, but the only issue is that the reflex mirror doesn't show full frame on some lenses due to size/vignetting issues. I have the 501CM and it's the machine (together with an SWC) I intend on keeping for a long long time.

    As for the 503, I wouldn't bother putting in extra money in for it, if budget is tight. I do studio with the 501 just fine. Lenses, on the other hand... I would spend a little more in order to get into the CF range.
    If you tone it down alot, it almost becomes bearable.

    - Walker Evans on using color

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    billschwab's Avatar
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    Personally I am happy with the 00 C/M. Have been for years. I'm on my 2nd one and the first is still going strong. You'll love it once you get used to the thing. Be sure the back and the film insert are the same serial number. Also make sure your lens is cocked before changing lenses and you'll be OK. A prism viewfinder is a big help as well as a rapid advance crank. I see them all on eBay all the time.

    Enjoy!

    Bill

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    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    Hi,
    I would go for the 501 or 503. Even if you don't need TTL, the viewfinder is better. On some 500CM, if you put long lens, you don't have the full image on the screen.
    It's bulky, less so than SL66 and the shutter sound is quite loud. The SL66 gives you incredible close up plus tilt possibilities.

    I have a 503 with 60mm and 100mm. I use it only on assignement. I really miss the SL66 (sold long time ago), and I'm more incline to use a Rolleiflex on a daily basis. Quite and discret.

    It depends on what you exactly need and which lens you want.

  5. #5
    wfe
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    I have a 503CW and love it although I don't use the autowinder or flash. The price was right and I bought it used. These are heavy especially with a prism but the negs are georgous and fun to work with.
    ~Bill
    "Real Art is a Thin Breath Exhaled Amidst a Struggle in the Mind"
    Fine Art and Portraits

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    I have the 500CM that I love. I had a 350mm lens and the 2x Mutar and never found a problem. I wonder how long a lens you have to use to notice a image falloff. I think the vignetting issue is highly overstated.

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    Hassie

    Hi Folks,

    Thanks for the input. From what I've found out on various threads its the c models that have the 'long lens' issue and this is what the GMS system has recitified(?) I am not realy that worried about how quiet the camera is as it will not be used in 'stealth mode' and not an issue. I am interested in the comment to buy the better lens. Are some lens designs better than others or is this only seen on mtf charts??

    Thanks again, Carl

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    Very nice website Bill....

    some lovely images!

    Quote Originally Posted by wfe
    I have a 503CW and love it although I don't use the autowinder or flash. The price was right and I bought it used. These are heavy especially with a prism but the negs are georgous and fun to work with.

  9. #9
    EmilGil's Avatar
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    I have noticed the vignetting on my 500c/m when working with the cf120 makro-planar, especially when using extension tubes but it doesn't bother me much.

    I would too go for the CF-series of lenses or newer (CFi/CFE) as these are smoother to focus, easier to set exposure and have better coating. Some people claim that there is a beginning shortage for parts to the older c/ct*-lenses, especially the flash contacts. The older lenses are almost as sharp as the newer, a few newer lenses have improved formulas which are said to give better results. I haven't had a chance to compare, but I did follow the advice to go for CF (I got a 60/3,5 and a 120/4, next one to come is the 250/5,6).

    You won't be disappointed with a 'blad, they're fantastic! (But my opinion might be slightly colored, being from Gothenburg, Sweden =)
    The camera is merely the means of capturing the image.

  10. #10
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarlRadford
    I am interested in the comment to buy the better lens. Are some lens designs better than others or is this only seen on mtf charts??
    I've had "old" C type Sonnar 150, Distagon 50, and Biogon 38, and have CF versions now. Flare control is vastly (and I mean huge) improved. Try pointing a 40mm C into the sun if you don't believe me. That was deal killer number one.

    The other thing is I like to work with the coupled EV rings. I.e. you determine exposure to be EV 12 say. Then you couple the aperture and shutter speed rings, and chose any combination . they all remain EV12. With the old lenses, the rings were always coupled and had to be separated to change exposure. The CF has a button to push when you want to change shutter speed/aperture without changing EV. Ergonomics work alot beter for me that way.

    MTF? No idea - but I suspect you'll get great resolution out of anything signed Zeiss that fits on a Hassie.
    If you tone it down alot, it almost becomes bearable.

    - Walker Evans on using color

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