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  1. #11
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    I knew I was on a slippery slope... "But I only wanna try something different" and the next thing you know you've bought the company and the razor.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  2. #12
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    It's okay, mhv, it's only money...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  3. #13
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Oh me! I bought the Kodalite today and put some bulbs that Mike Kennedy kindly sent to me, loaded a roll of 1965-expired VP 620 in the hawkeye, and man! do these bulbs give some real light! It's AWESOME!! The smell makes your hair tingle afterwards, your eyes are blind for half an hour, and the camera + flash unit just looks killer!

    On a lighter note, I've developed the previous rolls I put through it and I can now understand why lens matter in contrast. I've used some J&C 400, in full sunlight on a snowy street to take a picture of a shopping cart, developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 13mins, and the contrast is still pretty low! I must have something like Zone II to Zone VII in terms of densities.

    Anyhow, I'm just wondering now for my VP if there's anything I should care about to reduce base fog when I develop. I have HC-110 and Rodinal on hand, but photo stores abound here and I can get pretty much every developer.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  4. #14
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    On my limited experience, HC-110 is about the best you can get. It's already got a strong anti-fog agent in it. For that 40 year old VP, you'll probably want to develop a little extra to offset loss of film speed (as well as add a little contrast to offset the flare from the lens); adding 10% to 20% to whatever time you work from will likely help a bit.

    I'd love to see results from that combination -- VP was my standard film back when I owned a Brownie Hawkeye (with the Kodalite flash -- love those #5 bulbs).
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  5. #15
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    I brought the Brownie to my parents for Christmas and tried to take some pics with the flashbulb and the VP620. With my mom and dad, I tried to recreate a photo of my grandparents that was taken with a similar apparatus in the fifties. Sadly, the bulb I had kept not firing, until, of course, I tried to shoot a different subject. I developed the VP with my father in some HC-110b, 8 or 9 mins I think, but it was already heavily fogged. One or two image may be printable on grade 4 or 5, but we haven't tried it yet. The VP was bitchingly tightly wound, so it took master fingers to load it on Paterson reels. I was also very surprised to see it curl into a tube, Efke-like, once it dried.

    I just got a new set of Press 25B bulbs today, so I'll try again some flash shots on J&C Pro 100.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  6. #16
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Donald,
    I posted a scan of a photo I printed out of my old VP in the tech gallery:
    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...=11850&cat=502

    As you can see, there is a soft, fuzzy quality to it that is due in part to the lens, and in part to the film. It was heavily fogged, and lost a lot of its sensibility. In comparison, I've shot another series of pictures with the Brownie using 25B bulbs on J&C Pro 100 dev'd in Rodinal 1+50, and the densities are much better.

    I really like the results with the flash, so I think I'm going to keep that camera for interior flash shots rather than outside shots. Light is easier to control that way, and the contrast is less flat.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  7. #17
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    I've burned a fair number of bulbs with a Hawkeye in my day, but trust me -- use it outdoors, too. With ISO 100-125 film loaded, it's good in bright sun, hazy, and open shade conditions, and if you load ISO 400 you can go from "not quite bright sun" down to quite gloomy; the latitude of the film is so broad you'll still get printable negatives (400TX is best for this, but Classic 400 is pretty good, too). You can also use a yellow filter, if you can find one the correct slip-on size, to cut one stop of light with the faster film.

    Oh, and don't forget to put a roll or two of Superia through it -- you'll be glad you did...
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

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