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  1. #1
    serhan74us's Avatar
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    Mamiya C220 Cable Release and Exposure Question

    Hello,

    I have a hardware question. I have purchased a Mamiya C220 kit (Body, 80 mm lens, left handed grip, shade for the 80 mm lens, WLF, porro finder, caps, 46 mm filters, literature-all hardly used and in mint condition for 350 USD). I intend to do bulb exposures, so I would need a cable release. I have been googleing for days in vain. Does anybody know where I could find one (hopefully at a reasonable price)?

    My second question is regarding exposure in this system. I have never used a camera that did not have a built-in meter. To determine exposure for the C220 I have two options: A prehistoric Kalimat B-1 meter, and the built-in meter for my trusty but cheesy Canon EOS XSN. I figure that at a lens setting of 50 mm with my Canon (and with the same filters) I could determine the correct exposure for the C220 with the 80 mm lens. Would that work?

    I certainly would appreciate your input regarding these questions. Thanks in advance.

    regards,

    Serhan

  2. #2
    jovo's Avatar
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    A cable release is pretty simple to obtain. Check Adorama, B&H, or Freestyle (an APUG advertiser). As to metering, yes, the 80mm Mamiya lens is the supposed equvalent "normal" lens to the 35mm's 50mm lens, but there still may be variables you might need to compensate for. Try it. Shoot a few rolls and make adjustments as you encounter the need to....film is still relatively cheap, thank goodness


    Here, specifically, is a link to Freestyle's cable release offerings:

    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_sea...ease&rfnc=804&
    John Voss

    My Blog

  3. #3
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by serhan74us
    Hello,

    I have a hardware question. I have purchased a Mamiya C220 kit (Body, 80 mm lens, left handed grip, shade for the 80 mm lens, WLF, porro finder, caps, 46 mm filters, literature-all hardly used and in mint condition for 350 USD). I intend to do bulb exposures, so I would need a cable release. I have been googleing for days in vain. Does anybody know where I could find one (hopefully at a reasonable price)?

    My second question is regarding exposure in this system. I have never used a camera that did not have a built-in meter. To determine exposure for the C220 I have two options: A prehistoric Kalimat B-1 meter, and the built-in meter for my trusty but cheesy Canon EOS XSN. I figure that at a lens setting of 50 mm with my Canon (and with the same filters) I could determine the correct exposure for the C220 with the 80 mm lens. Would that work?

    I certainly would appreciate your input regarding these questions. Thanks in advance.

    regards,

    Serhan
    You can pickup Gossen Luna Pro meters and the spot attachment on e-bay for a song these days. A much better option than using another camera to meter with, IMO.

    Don Bryant

  4. #4

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    Hello,
    You should be able to find cable releases on ebay for not too much.

    Regarding exposure, I like to use my SLR's spotmeter to give me the most accurate reading. Even if you don't have a spot-meter in your SLR, mount a tele lens or a shorter lens with a tele-converter. With the longest focal length possible on your lens combination, you have a spot-meter at well under half the cost of a proper dedicated spot-meter.

    But since you are using the C220, you will have to compensate for exposure when you focus on near objects. If you look at the left side of your camera while you extend the bellows to focus nearer, you will notice a focus and exposure scale on the side that will tell you how much you will have to compensate for exposure or parallax error.

    Clarence

  5. #5
    serhan74us's Avatar
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    Jovo, Dongba, Clarence: Thanks for your input.

    Jovo: Do you know which of those cable release offerings at Freestyle would work with the socket of the C220?

    Dongba: I agree, it is just that I have broken the bank with the C220 (being a grad student), and am trying to shoot a few rolls on the cheap. I'll buy a good lightmeter in a few months.

    Clarence: Yes, that was how I intended on using the Canon. Figuring out the operational details of the C220 will be fun. I have been following eBay for a few weeks, and no C220/C330 release was offered (even a couple of paramenders were offered in the meantime, are Mamiya brand cable releases that rare?). I am not sure which third party cable releases would work.

    Thanks again.

    regards,

    Serhan
    [COLOR=Blue]Why do the first movements of Tchaikovsky's Symphony No. 6 ring in my ears when I look at my negatives?[/COLOR]

  6. #6
    AZLF's Avatar
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    You did not say whether the "prehistoric Kalimat" works properly or not. If it does then I would suggest using it. If not there is always the "sunny 16" option which I have used on many cameras and several locations on the planet. The sun is pretty much the same everywhere.

    Last year I was down near the Mexican border( Nogales,Az) shooting with my 4x5. I had also brought along a Mamiya C-3 recently obtained and I had Tri-x 320 in it. A friend was with me who had been a wedding and sports photographer many years ago and had used the Mamiya TLR system at that time. Although the sun was out there were clouds and one was partially blocking the sun at that moment. I had my Gossen Luna Star F meter with me and as I was dialing in the asa for the Tri-x my friend just looked around and called out an f-stop and speed for the shot. I took my reading and he was dead on the money. He knew the film so well he could just look at the scene and know what speed/f-stop to use. As I thought about it I realized that I could do that too with asa 100 film which is a film I have shot many rolls of in every type of lighting. I now try and call the exposure before I meter to see if I am still "calibrated".

    There is always "bracketing" to fall back on as well. But starting with F-16 at the speed of the film for open sunlight is a really good place to start.

    As far as the shutter release cable goes my C-3 takes a standard cable release which I have found easy to obtain both locally and on ebay.
    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=10716
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  7. #7

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    I use a standard cable release on my C220. Any standard inexpensive cable release should work.

  8. #8
    serhan74us's Avatar
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    AZLF, Wayne Frederick: Thank you for your input.

    AZLF:Oh! Typo! "Kalimar" should it be...And, well it is moody. Sometimes it is on target, but usually off by 2-3 steps, and not consistently. I have given up on trying to calibrate it. And kudos to you on your ability to use your eyes as a light-meter. I can't do that. I have to use a meter, but I have found that I can do w/o the grey card by doing compensation "guesses" and usually I am on target. I'll buy a standard cable release.

    Wayne Frederick: I will buy a standard cable release.

    Of course I can always compensate for over/underexposure in the negative while printing (at a considerable quality cost). I hate negatives that are not perfectly exposed.

    Thanks again for your input.

    regards,

    Serhan
    [COLOR=Blue]Why do the first movements of Tchaikovsky's Symphony No. 6 ring in my ears when I look at my negatives?[/COLOR]

  9. #9
    AZLF's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=serhan74us]AZLF, Wayne Frederick: Thank you for your input.

    AZLF:Oh! Typo! "Kalimar" should it be...And, well it is moody.

    As it happens when I was posting I actually typed "Kalimar" the first time because I had heard of this brand for years and have an enlarger lens of that brand. But I checked your post and realized that I had not gotten the brand name right. Two people. Separated by a common language.




    Sometimes it is on target, but usually off by 2-3 steps, and not consistently. I have given up on trying to calibrate it.

    Too bad. I lucked out when I was looking for a meter and found the Luna star-F on ebay for $100.00. It does incident, reflected and flash metering and I have been very happy with it. In "T" mode you can also hold the meter button down and wave it through the different zones in the shot and get the full range of light levels within the shot expressed as progressively differing
    f-stops. The Gossen Digi-6 will also do this which sound like it might be handy for how you shoot.

    But I think you underestimate yourself when you say you cannot "call" the exposure. Pick a film asa that you have shot a lot with and try it when you get a meter. I'll bet you surprise yourself. Especially if you develop your own negs and can see the results of your exposure choices soon after you made them. It is difficult to "calibrate" the eye when there is a week or more between shooting and seeing the results.


    Of course I can always compensate for over/underexposure in the negative while printing (at a considerable quality cost). I hate negatives that are not perfectly exposed.

    Yeah, I know what you mean. There is only so much in that sows ear to make a silk purse with and no matter what you do it isn't what you saw and wanted when you shot the exposure.
    http://www.apug.org/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=10716
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  10. #10

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    The C220 should have a standard conical threaded socket at the top of the lensboard frame on the right of the camera as you hold it.

    Pictures are here: https://webfiles.berkeley.edu/graham...c220/c220.html
    Look at the right side and the overhead pictures. Some C220 (and C22/C33) cameras have lost the conical thread socket from the frame.
    I feel, therefore I photograph.

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