In 35mm terms, I generally work as you suggest.
However, the depth-of-field in 6x6 with a standard (80mm) lens is considerably shorter than in 35mm with a standard (50mm) lens. With the 180mm Mamiya lens the DoF is *much* shorter than I'm used to! This, and the inability to check, is repeatedly tripping me up.
For landscape work I am quite often finding that I haven't allowed a wide enough aperture for my composition and either the foreground or the background is soft. In another case I wanted selective DoF for a contre-jour dewy spider-webbed cross in a graveyard. When I check the neg afterwards I find that one side of the cross is sharp as a tack whilst the other is softer than I feel I can get away with, even at 10x8. (I'm currently looking at the possibility of doing this with a paper interneg to give the whole thing a softer, more textured feel... but I may well be in "sow's ear" territory! )
I find the distance scales on the C330S very imprecise and (in my inexperienced hands) useless. Others may (and apparently do) find differently. I'm not very good at guessing distances. Others may be (and apparently are) better.
The idea of a laser rangefinder may well be overkill, but on the other hand may speed my learning process i.e. "The hyperfocal near point for this lens at this aperture is *this* much which makes it about that rock *there*. The hyperfocal focussing distance is *this* much which makes it that mossy patch *there*. Job's a good 'un!"
I did a quick search online and apparently I'm not the only one who thinks this method may have merit. Unfortunately the products the other chaps are using are only available on the other side of the pond and the ones over here are ridiculously pricey.
In the meantime I'll keep practicing and bracket my apertures more. If it were easy it wouldn't be fun!
All the best