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  1. #11

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    The RZ is a more refined camera IMO. It has additional centrfigul wheels to absorb shock, one stroke action, and the lenses are sharper than the normal RB C lenses.

    The RB KL lenses are supposedly the same optically as the normal RZ lenses, but there are no ULD or apo RB lenses as far as I know.

    The RZ has electronic aperture control but you can shoot any RB lens on it, although the scale will be off.

  2. #12
    Paul Sorensen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANelles
    The 1 lever to cock and wind the film might have sold me on the RZ. I always seem to forget if I've pushed both levers on cameras with 2, I hate accidental double exposures or skipped frames.

    Again thanks for everyones help. I just have 1 final question before I start shopping for a kit. It was mentioned there are different series of lenses for the RB/RZ. Anyone know if a list of the different series and what they are? Just want to make sure I will be knowledgeable enough to select a good one.
    The ProS and ProSD versions of the RB have an interlock to prevent double exposures and don't allow you to advance until a picture is taken (there are overrides for both.) You have to have a ProS or ProSD back for these features to work.

    As for the lenses, I do not have any list, but the series are Non-C, C, and K for the RB and Z for the RZ. If you take a look at KEH.com, they will have many, if not most, of the lenses in their listing. This will also give you a decent idea of value.

  3. #13
    snegron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    The ProS and ProSD versions of the RB have an interlock to prevent double exposures and don't allow you to advance until a picture is taken (there are overrides for both.) You have to have a ProS or ProSD back for these features to work.

    As for the lenses, I do not have any list, but the series are Non-C, C, and K for the RB and Z for the RZ. If you take a look at KEH.com, they will have many, if not most, of the lenses in their listing. This will also give you a decent idea of value.
    How do you operate that interlock device? If I don't cock the film advance I will continue to get multiple exposures on the same frame. I have the RB Pro S and the Pro S back as well.

  4. #14
    eclarke's Avatar
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    Make sure and get an RZ ProII, the first version was buggy and the new ones are going for bargain prices at the auction...EC

  5. #15

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    snegron, there is a switch around the film advance lever, it is the multi-exposure switch. My guess is it is set wrong, try putting it in the other position.

  6. #16
    Travis Nunn's Avatar
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    How do you operate that interlock device? If I don't cock the film advance I will continue to get multiple exposures on the same frame. I have the RB Pro S and the Pro S back as well.
    If the red dot is showing by the multi exposure switch, you'll get multiple exposures. Trust me, I know far too well.
    ____________________________________________
    Searching my way to perplexion

  7. #17
    Pragmatist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Sorensen
    The RZ has more plastic and therefore is probably a little lighter, especially the prisms. The lenses were new, but as I mentioned, they were also released for the RB as the K series. The RB requires you to wind the back and cock the shutter in two separate motions, the RZ uses just one motion of the cocking lever on the body to also wind the film. The RZ has a relatively inexpensive (used, at least) winder that fits under the camera, the only winder for the RB is a whole different back and is kind of clumsy. The RZ can take an electronic cable release which is kind of cool because they made one that was about 25 feet long. (I had one for the Mamiya 645 Super, it is the same one for the RZ) I am sure that there are other differences.
    There are actually two motor backs for the RB series. One (oldest) takes a special Pro S back and couples it to a motor drive that is attached to the bottom of the camera. Functional, but bulky, expensive, and unweildy. A newer solution is the motorized SD back, which uses batteries and the motor in a self contained back unit. I have these, and am well pleased. Only one motion, which is cocking the shutter. Look out hassy....

    If you go with the RB, pick up a Pro SD or Pro S (older). The standard Pro is the oldest model, most prone to problems, and has a number of limitations in the backs. These are all quite reasonable on fleabay.

    The KL series of lenses are the latest for the RB's. They do not fit on the oldest RB's. A special spacer is necessary for some lenses on some bodies. All of this stuff is readily avalable. I have compared the C series (older) and the K/L series, and for the majority of studio and exterior work can find little differences in the negative. Not enough to justify the cost, unless one has a great deal of money to throw around.
    Patrick

    something witty and profound needs to be inserted here...

  8. #18

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    Oh, if you do go the RB route, a couple of things:

    1 Don't even consider a non Pro-S or SD model, the prices at KEH aren't that much more and it will save your butt.

    2l Wander over to www.mamiya.com (I think) and d/l the manual, play with the camera for a while w/o any film in it.

    3. Most importantly, before you shoot, ALWAYS check the mirror up knob, or if you're lucky, you'll be out shooting with your new toy and realize by the 2nd or 3rd frame that you hear the fwoook of the mirror (you will be assimilated, you will like that sound), but no 1/2 sec of shutter.....yeah, been one of those weekends.


    erie

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by t_nunn
    If the red dot is showing by the multi exposure switch, you'll get multiple exposures. Trust me, I know far too well.
    Warning also for the RZ - if it's on the orange dot by mistake instead of the white dot (or the red dot) the shutter speed will be set automatically at 1/400 no matter what the shutter dial is set at, and you'll also be able to take pics with the dark slide in place. This is an 'emergency' setting if the battery runs out. Someone asked recently about using the camera with the dark slide in place - it struck me afterwards this could have been what happenned (normally it's impossible the release the shutter with the dark slide in place).
    Cate

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by epatsellis
    ...you hear the fwoook of the mirror (you will be assimilated, you will like that sound)
    lol! The RB sounds weird, right down to the strange metallic ring after you recock the shutter.

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