I have a Rolleiflex T, Yashica D with Yashinon(4 element) and Yashica A with Yashikor (three element)
The Yashica A (I paid $15 for it) is surprisingly sharp at f8-f16 and not a whole lot different than the four element Yashinon in the "D". However, the Rollei simply blows away the yashicas in image quality and build quality.
I inherited the Rollei, and paid to have it professionally serviced (CLA). After using the Rollei, I understand why the prices on Rolleis are so much higher. The Yashicas are good cameras, but just not in the same league as the Rollei.
"I'm still developing"
It seems to me its enthusiasm is the key here not pushing a brand, it seems some comments are taken a little to seriously sometimes, the poster is just very keen on Rollei as am I.
Originally Posted by kb244
The camera cannot lie, but it cannot help being selective.
Well, to me a good, inexpensive TLR is a Rolleicord. Slight differences on the various models, but anything from a III (with the Xenar) up to the last Vb is a good start. Even the older 'Cords with Triotars are nice but they need to be stopped down a bit to perform at their sharpest. The only models to really avoid are the oldest ones without the bayonet on the taking lens. Filters and hoods can be hard to source for these.
“Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu
Wow, guys, thanks (albeit somewhat overhalming) :-)
What do you say abuot Rollei SL66 ? How it fares ? I know, it is SLR and apparently allows soem lens movements. I thought to consider one with standard 80mm lens.
Is it heavy beast ? Combersome to use ?
I'm now approaching an important point in my photo passion: deciding to jump off 35mm trane selling all my 35mm gear (Canon professional setup + Nikon 35mm scanner) willing to go with a simple yet robust MF to back up my LF passion. I'm going to post a dedictaed thread in this regard to seek opinions.
it is large, it is heavy and is nearly impossible to use freehand. Without the handgrip you must change the grip between focussing (the knob is on the left) and supporting the camera while releasing the shutter. The handgrip makes it even larger. I have one but never used it. I always use it from a tripod.
But of cause, there are guys even using a RB67 freehand.
Last edited by Ulrich Drolshagen; 11-16-2006 at 03:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
For what it's worth...
I'll toss my vote in for the Rolleicord V / Rolleiflex from the 1950s.
I have one of each, love using them both. I don't see the difference in optics between the two, but I slightly prefer to use the 'flex due to the lack of the shutter and aperture being linked, and because the crank film advance feels faster and better than the 'cords knob advance. Oh, also the shutter release on the 'flex just feels much better than on the 'cord.
But my 'cord has a bright screen divided by thirds, while my 'flex just has the standard (rather dim) Rollei screen. That single change almost negates all the "better handling" features of the 'flex - but not quite.
Not sure this is an issue for you, but I travel a lot by motorcycle. I have no hard data, but I suspect the old over-built Rollei TLRs take that in stride better than many newer cameras. Just a hunch, mind you.
Well, Karl, at least you and I can agree, here in this forum, that NOTHING beats film. We might differ on our tools, but in the end we share the common bond of silver gelatin.
Originally Posted by kb244
SL66 is nice camera and its lenses are great, but is very large and heavy. SL66E and SL66SE are with exposure meter that is accurate and convenient. The bellows can tilt as well, though limited. You can use standard lens reversed for close-up.
It is mechanically much more complicated than Hasselblad, and is prone to trouble. I had one, but it costed me much money when I had to get it repaired. Once the mechanism was jammed after I changed film back and the other time the plastic rack gear was broken.
Focal plane shutter works with big noise and shock.
It's not cheap. With the price of SL66 I think you can purchase top line Rolleiflex TLR such as 3.5F or 2.8F.
Thank you guys, that really helps to putmy considerations in a proper order..
Hasselblad/Rollei SLR options now failed, we left with:
1. TLR Planar/Xenotar (presumably Rolleiflex)
2. Cheaper TLR with Tessar/Xenar or similar (Rolleiflex/cord, Yashica Mat 124 or Minolta Autocord)
3. Pentax 645N
4. Rangefinder (Bronica RF645, no larger needed)
Have never used rangefinders so far, not sure how it is convenient for say, environmental portraiture (where 6x6 TLR excells), but small, light and high quality.
What about comparative analysis of TLR vs. rangefinder when simplicity yet robustness is desired ?
> Once the mechanism was jammed after I changed film back
Rule #1: Whatever you do, cock the shutter first
AFAIK this rule more or less applies to all MF-cameras with interchangeable backs and shutters in lenses.
As any other mechanical device a SL66 can break, especially when abused. I can't see why it should be more prone to demage than let's say a RB67, which features a bellows too.
I agree on your attitude towards Rolleiflex TLR though.