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  1. #11

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    I used the plastic paterson/jessops 35mm spiral that can be adapted to use 120. All the advice above is very helpful thank you.

    Is there no leeway then with putting the first bit of paper/film in the spiral - does it really need to be pitch dark - as I said with the 35mm you get the film leader bit to at least get you started. Is the first bit of film proper you come to literally the last photo you took?

    I didn't remove the paper all the way off first time I guess if you do that of course it needs to be dark - that worries me because then the film gets all caught up and spirally but then I suppose as its not as long as 35mm its easier.

    Like you all say practise makes perfect - many thanks for the advice I do appreciate it

    Regards
    Rebecca

    http://www.rebecca-sichelcoates.com
    Thanks

    Rebecca

    www.rebecca-sichelcoates.com

  2. #12
    Amund's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RebeccaSC View Post

    Is there no leeway then with putting the first bit of paper/film in the spiral - does it really need to be pitch dark -
    Regards
    Rebecca

    http://www.rebecca-sichelcoates.com
    No leeway at all!....
    Amund
    __________________________________________
    -Digital is nice but film is like having sex with light-

  3. #13

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    No, Rebecca, you have to do it all in the dark. When I was starting developing, I used one roll to load it in the light while watching. Then I tried the same roll several times with my eyes closed tightly (while still in the daylight) so as I could check what went wrong, if anything. I did it some 2 or 3 times. Then I went to the darkroom and did it for real on the film I wanted to develop. Yeah, I was a bit nervous, but everything went OK. Now there is no problem loading only by feel of fingers (and I have loaded not that many rolls).

    As to how> I only unstick the film in the darkroom, unroll it until I feel the film itself starts, then start loading only the film on the reel. I let the paper hang freely. When I come to the sticker joining the paper and film, I peel it off and let the paper fall down. Then I finish the loading of the film. I think (but I can be wrong), that this way you minimize the amount of possible fingerprints/dust spots/scratches on the film. Others might think contrary, though...

    Just do some practice and you will not mind the dark...
    Jiri Vasina
    www.vasina.net

  4. #14
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    There is only about an inch, two at the very most, between the start of the film and the last image, so unfortunately, however careful you are, you can not start the film on to the reel in the light.

    My method with the Paterson plastic reels is to "pull" the film on to the reel rather than try to push it. The film can be too floppy to overcome the resistance of the ball bearings when pushing it. Grab the end of the film between thumb and finger (you have about an inch before the image starts) and pull it into the guide slots. Pull it about 1/2 of the way around and then use the normal twisting action to get the rest of it on the reel. I usually tear the tape off the paper at the end and fold it over the film.

    Good luck, Bob.

  5. #15

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    No matter what type of reel you use what counts is practice, practice, practice. Use an old roll of film and practice in the light until you can load the reel easily.

  6. #16
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    I seperate the paper before I load the film, but ONLY if I am going to join up 2 rolls to load onto one reel (effectively turning it into a 220 length film) - I do this most of the time though as it is more economical with both chemicals and time.

    If I am only developing one film, i leave the paper flapping until I get to the sticky then as already said, tear off the paper and fold the sticky over.

  7. #17
    Will S's Avatar
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    A couple of things to look out for - pulling the tape off of the film often causes a spark. OTOH, I have always been told to get it off of there as you don't want the glue coming loose during the development process and sticking to the film. If you pull off the tape slowly it doesn't spark (usually).

    Also, I've always thought loading 120 on a stainless steel spiral was a lot easier than 35mm, but to each her own.

    good luck,

    Will
    "I am an anarchist." - HCB
    "I wanna be anarchist." - JR

  8. #18

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    I dono. I managed to get my first roll of B&W onto the reels without wasting a single roll of film.

    But then, I'm weird. :P

  9. #19

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    << I seperate the paper before I load the film, but ONLY if I am going to join up 2 rolls to load onto one reel (effectively turning it into a 220 length film) - I do this most of the time though as it is more economical with both chemicals and time. >>>

    Leon, I'd never thought of that or heard of it. Going to have to try that, too.

    Would be wonderful to cut chemistry and dev. time in half (overall) by doing 2 rolls at a time.

    Thanks!

    Doug Grosjean

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Will S View Post
    A couple of things to look out for - pulling the tape off of the film often causes a spark. OTOH, I have always been told to get it off of there as you don't want the glue coming loose during the development process and sticking to the film. If you pull off the tape slowly it doesn't spark (usually).



    The sparking only fogs the film under the tape – I've never seen it spread any further. And yes, definitely don't leave it on when processing.

    I prefer S/S reels – with the Paterson type there is always the danger of kinking the film while pushing it into the reel. I would advise you to turn off the light before you even break the tape on the film: if you drop it with the tape off and the light on you have every chance of ruining the film. (actually I use a changing bag, but mutatis mutandis...)



    Richard

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