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  1. #1
    rfshootist's Avatar
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    Mamiya C220 lens hood on wides

    Hi,

    there are wide angle lenses for the C220/330, for example a 4,5/50 (?) AFAIK.
    Somehow strange but I have never seen any photo of a Cxx0 with a w-a lens and a fitting w-a hood mounted, and I would imagine it does intrude into the finder's lens view ?
    Maybe a silly question, but how is this prob solved ?

    Thanks,

    Bertram
    A la recherche du temps perdu: www. bersac.de

  2. #2
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Like this:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-C330-C220...QQcmdZViewItem
    The hinged part is positioned at the top and turned so that it is edge-on to the viewing lens - this makes it virtually disappear in the viewfinder!

    Regards,

    David

  3. #3
    rfshootist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David H. Bebbington View Post
    Like this:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-C330-C220...QQcmdZViewItem
    The hinged part is positioned at the top and turned so that it is edge-on to the viewing lens - this makes it virtually disappear in the viewfinder!

    Regards,

    David
    Thanks, David !


    Best,
    bertram
    A la recherche du temps perdu: www. bersac.de

  4. #4
    wclavey's Avatar
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    While I know it's not ideal, I use a lens hood from a 28mm lens (in the 35mm format) on my c220 55mm taking lens. It does obscure a tiny bit in the viewing lens (small gray hazy spot on the lower edge) but it is not a real issue. The bigger issue I have, which you won't have if you get one of the real Mamiya hoods, is if you stack a filter and a screw-on lens hood, you start to get some vignetting. I use yellow and orange filters extensively in my B&W photos, and I end up removing the hood and using an old 4x5 dark slide to shield the lens if it looks like direct light will be a problem.

  5. #5
    rfshootist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wclavey View Post
    While I know it's not ideal, I use a lens hood from a 28mm lens (in the 35mm format) on my c220 55mm taking lens. It does obscure a tiny bit in the viewing lens (small gray hazy spot on the lower edge) but it is not a real issue. The bigger issue I have, which you won't have if you get one of the real Mamiya hoods, is if you stack a filter and a screw-on lens hood, you start to get some vignetting. I use yellow and orange filters extensively in my B&W photos, and I end up removing the hood and using an old 4x5 dark slide to shield the lens if it looks like direct light will be a problem.
    I use filter too for BW, yelllow and orange and so the screw in hood would not be a solution I think. Thanks for the hint !

    Regards,
    Bertram
    A la recherche du temps perdu: www. bersac.de

  6. #6

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    I've got a 55mm f4.5 with the official Mamiya flip-top lens hood. It is a crazy brilliant design that works great! Photos taken using this lens+hood are in my APUG gallery.

  7. #7

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    And arguing for the less collectible, I've found that a 49-52mm step-up ring and a Nikon HN-3 (35mm f2) lens hood work well for the 65mm. No vignetting, and only a little fuzz in the viewing lens.

    Completely unrelated, but this week's discovery is that my old flash-bracket (angle-iron with a handle and a tripod screw on the bottom), really does make the 220 a better hand-held camera. Very small tweaks, and it just becomes a more and more natural tool to use.

  8. #8
    wclavey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fparnold View Post
    ...this week's discovery is that my old flash-bracket (angle-iron with a handle and a tripod screw on the bottom), really does make the 220 a better hand-held camera. Very small tweaks, and it just becomes a more and more natural tool to use.
    I have to agree. I have 2 non-brand name L-brackets, one for each body (Accura brand, heavy duty with large squate base plates) that make a world of difference for the c3 and the c220. In fact, they have threaded holes at the ends of the slot with the thumb screws, and my Q-R plate for the tripod screws in there, with plenty of room left for turning to attach to the camera. So the Q-R plates are there fulltime and I can switch from hand-held to trpod instantly. With the L-brackets, they may be heavy but they are very easy to handle and they balance quite well.

    I use to have a cable release that fit into the "trigger" of the L-bracket and I would use that to partially depress the shutter release with my left hand, then make the exposure with the thumb of my right hand using the release on the right side of the body... it was very nice, with the trigger finger of my left hand doing most of the pushing and then just a light trip of the thumb at the last minute. But the cable releases wore out and I have never found a replacement that fit the trigger on the Accura bracket.

    But like you said, small adjustments make it a very easy system to use. I'll have to try the step-up ring. I use a 46-49 step-up ring on the normal 80mm lens so that I can use the same screw-on filters with it and the 180mm and the 65mm. Maybe I should step them all up to 52mm. I'll look into that. Thanks.
    Last edited by wclavey; 01-13-2007 at 08:27 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: One last thought... & bad spelling



 

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