Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,317   Posts: 1,536,747   Online: 1058
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    south central Missouri
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,926
    Images
    9
    I'm a big fan of David Odess also. However, I have found it much cheaper to by bargain priced stuff on ebay and have David service it before I use it.

    This gets me a product quite a bit under David's price point, still below exc+/mint stuff on ebay, plus I know the piece I had David service is ready to go. Just because it's mint on Ebay doesn't mean it still won't need service.

    Only thing I'm giving up is mine generally aren't as pretty, barrel only I bid on clean glass, but what the heck.

    I need pretty pictures, not a pretty lens.

    My 2 cents.

    Mike

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Stockholm, Sweden
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    18
    I would fullheartedly recommend the 201F body - even if you use it only with C/CF lenses.

    Why? First of all, it's a more modern design and different mirror mechanism, which means you get the full view regardless of focal length - I use the CF350 with extender, no problem.

    You also get much more solid mechanics (compared to the 500 body) when attaching a Winder F, if you would like to do that in the future.

    You also get a self timer built in. Great in some pinches.

    Last but not least, you can use the central shutter in the C/CF lenses (setting the time dial on the 201F to C) which is what I do most of the time to reduce vibrations etc, just as with a 500 body. But you can also choose to use the 201F's electronic shutter, where you set the CF lens in the "F" position and then the shutter speed on the 201Fs time dial. This gives you shorter shutter speed (1/1000) and more importantly, the mirror bounces back directly after the exposure so that you only get a brief "blackout", as in a 35mm SLR. Especially for fast shooting conditions (wildlife, motorsports, etc) but also great when taking portraits since you get more time to react to the subject and also to focus. The 500's go black in the finder until you cock the shutter, which is fine too in most situations.

    And you get the TTL and option to use the great F lenses as well (a 50/2.8 and 110/2 and 2x extender will be a very compact and high performing kit).

    In my opinion, the 201F is the perfect Hasselblad body with the best of both worlds. The 203 and 205 bodies are fine too, but too complicated in my opinion, and the electronics really need you to go for an all-out "FE" system including lenses and film mags - much more expensive. And even then they are a bit complicated to work with. Use your money on good C/CF lenses, a bright matte screen and a good finder - the PME45 is unbeatable.

    Regards,
    /Henrik

  3. #13
    copake_ham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    NYC or Copake or Tucson
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    4,092
    Images
    56
    Amazing coincidence. I just ordered only a half-hour or so ago a used 80mm CF (EX+) from a dealer to replace the C that came with my 503CW kit.

    Unfortunately the C has some cleaning marks that can flare on angle shots.

    I went back and forth on what to order as a replacement and decided to go with a later model of "equal" quality rating simply on the expectation that it will have seen less use.

    I'm certainly not foolish enough to think the glass was better made. But I'm gambling a bit that since it's newer at the same "quality rating" it will be worth the extra $50!

    BTW: I ordered from a well known dealer and do trust their evaluations. I won't buy glass on eBay anymore - too much of a crap shoot.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Charleston, SC
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    34
    You might also want to consider the 503 CX. It adds the advantage of being able to meter flash TTL, and it's still a lot less expensive than the current 503 CW. I've been very satisfied with mine.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1
    I agree with most of your views regarding the difference between "C" and "CF" lenses. Some are identical like the 100mm where the glass elements from the latest "CFi" will fit in the earliest non T* "C" lenses.
    Some others like the 40mm were completely redesigned and will perform better.
    Also the later 50 mm CF with floating elements gives better results especially
    at close range. Of course this does not mean that earlier models are no good.

    CB lenses do not have the "F" mode that is of no importance for use with a "C" body but are optically different.
    The 80mm CB is a different design and has one element less.
    A good lens but the "C" and "CF" designs are better.

    Bodies:
    Only the 501CM and the 503CW have the larger mirror.
    To add to the confusion the 501 C does not have the improved mirror and is
    only a facelift 500CM body.

    I hope this makes sense and does not add to the confusion.

    Paul

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin