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Thread: No Light Meter

  1. #11
    Ole
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    Even on a fixed-aperture zoom lens, there can be considerable difference between the f-stop and the light transmission. The f-stop is a mathematical aperture, which is not corrected for light loss in the lens. The Bronica lenses are simpler in construction than zoom lenses, and transmit more of the light.

    I wouldn't have thought that the difference could be enough to cause significant over-exposure, though...

    You could see if you can find a cheap fixed 50mm lens for the Pentax, that would be closer to the Bronica lens in terms of light transmission.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
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    Thankyou to everyone who replied to my posted question. There were many useful suggestions and offers of help. I will probably try the estimation approach first as I now realise that there may be too many variables to sort out in trying to calibrate two cameras. Given I do ultimately intend to purchase a light meter some day, it may be best to wait until then as I will probably need to run a few tests to get these to interact reliably.

    Thanks gain.

    Michael
    Michael K

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    Hi Michael,

    sunny 16 is really a viable approach but I'd as well look at a well known auction site for an old Weston Master V. Examples still in working condition go for a song there. So for a shiny new one you can wait till christmas then ;-)

    Ulrich

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    As prices of secondhand meters can be as low as 5 to 10 EURO, there is no reason not to buy one...
    Bosnia... You don't have to be crazy to live here, but it helps...
    No things in life should be left unfinis

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    Quote Originally Posted by haris View Post
    As prices of secondhand meters can be as low as 5 to 10 EURO, there is no reason not to buy one...
    But what kind of meter is that?

    I do not want to have to run over to the objective and read the light, esp if I shoot landscape . The closest to a handheld spotmeter must be a SLR or DSLR.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrydberg View Post
    I do not want to have to run over to the objective and read the light, esp if I shoot landscape . The closest to a handheld spotmeter must be a SLR or DSLR.
    If you are not one of the zone system guys, there ist no need for a spotmeter. You can get away with simple object or incident light metering generally.

    Ulrich

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrydberg View Post
    I do not want to have to run over to the objective and read the light, esp if I shoot landscape
    No running needed. The sun falling on distant mountains is the same falling on your head. It will provide the same reading on an incident meter. If you are shooting into shadows you can step into nearby shade. Its not hard and it works remarkably well. An incident meter is pointed back at the camera from the subject not at the subject like a reflective meter.

    I recommend looking for a Norwood Director.

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