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  1. #11
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmas View Post
    Try and get one with little machanical damage and no optical. It does not have to be pristine mechanically, just not badly bent, and able to take filters.

    Check the shutter is ok slow and fast speeds.

    Noel

    P.S. Use a hood.
    I can't say I agree. A lens with a little WEAR on the paint finish of the barrel may be OK, but any signs of damage indicate a probability that the lens in question has been dropped, in which case all bets are off regarding optical performance!

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by thefizz View Post
    Is there much difference between the lenses with W, WN or no letter after them?
    I believe there's no difference - it just refers to when the lenses were produced/coated (& it's sequential rather than a precise date).

  3. #13

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    I think some design changes happened to. But in some cases multiple types were sold at the same time.

    I think they are selling the APO and the earlier line still at this moment.

  4. #14

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    When I recently bought a lens from ffordes photography (reputable dealers in the UK) and asked this very question they explained they and other dealers had tried to clarify exactly what the letters meant and found Mamiya unforthcoming - except to say it referred to the period in which the lenses were coated.

  5. #15
    thefizz's Avatar
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    Thank you all.
    www.thephotoshop.ie
    www.monochromemeath.com

    "you get your mouth off of my finger" Les McLean

  6. #16

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    The 140 macro and the 150 are good general purpose portrait lenses, IMO. For close portraits the 180 and 250 are best, allowing better control of background focus and more pleasing perspective.

    Softening filters are easy to make using various materials such as nylon stocking in matboard frame held in front of lens.

    The 180 is relatively cheap in price these days - my first choice.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  7. #17

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    180 is my all time favourite not only for portraits but also equally good on landscapes!!!!!

  8. #18

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    And 250 K/L is really sharp with nice bokeh. It was tuned to take excellent pictures for both near and far distant objects.

  9. #19

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    A while back I was reading someone's ebay listing, and it said that the W indicates that there is a wider aperture range between the click stops. I believe this might be true because I have a 110mm non-W and a 180mm W-N and the 180 definitely has a wider range between stops (just like the K/L L and K/L L-A lenses for the RB). I don't know what the difference is between the W and the W-N though.

    Anybody got any experience with the Sekor Z 150mm f3.5? I'm thinking about getting one. Also, I can't decide between the 65mm Z lens or the 75mm. Any recommendations on that?

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