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  1. #1

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    Loading Graphic "23" Roll Film Back -- Correctly

    I have a pair of Graphic "23" roll film backs (6cm x 9cm) that I use with my Galvin 2x3 monorail view camera and my 2x3 Crown Graphic mini-press camera. One back has a knob to advance the film, the other has a lever.

    Last April (I think it was), I found a 6-year-old thread on photo.net that lead me to a PDF copy of an instruction brochure for these backs. While I was certain that I had saved it on my notebook computer (I was traveling at the time), I cannot find it. Worse, I cannot find that document again although Google reveals the thread.

    Based on my obviously faulty recollection, I turn the indicator knob to align the "S" with the arrow while the insert is empty. I then load the film, insert the paper in the take-up spool, and turn until the arrows on the paper backing align with the arrow on the inside of the insert. The insert is set in the holder, and I work the knob/lever until "1" is aligned with the arrow.

    The levered back requires me to move the silver release to the left before the lever will rotate and move the film; the knobbed back seems to have lost the catch for the lever, so I just turn it until the next number aligns with the arrow on the case. When I have taken frame number 8, I turn the knob/lever a dozen or so times to ensure that the paper is completely rolled onto the take-up spool.

    What I find after developing the film is a half-frame at the front immediately followed by second frame (no spacing), uneven spacing, blank gaps, and other indicators of non-uniform film transport. I'd like to learn how to use these backs correctly, particularly the levered back so I can use it with my Crown Graphic as a travel camera. Hand-holding with sheet film worked for press photographers many decades ago, but roll film is much more convenient.

    Suggestions, pointers, guidance, and help will be much appreciated.

    TIA,

    Rich

  2. #2
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    One thing you're doing wrong is setting the counter to "S" before you've lined up the arrow on the film with the start mark. Should be AFTER. However, the only effect of this would be to place the first image incorrectly on the film. If you have problems with incorrect spacing of subsequent frames, the wind mechanism is not working correctly (the back with the knob is, you say. damaged). I don't know if repairs are feasible and/or economically viable, I have six or so of these backs and they all work! Sometimes one is offered on e-bay with no darkslide and goes very cheap -the filmholders are the same, no matter what format camera the back is for.

    Regards,

    David

  3. #3

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    It's been awhile but I believe that you need to close the back before moving to the start position. Back should be set beyond the 8 so it turns freely. Load film and advance to line up film and insert arrows. Put insert in back and close. Advance counter knob to start. Mine goes through two clicks. Then advance to lock into 1 position. Use lever to unlock and advance to next frame. 6x9 lever backs are supposed to be the best as they have the small rollers at the ends to help keep film flat. Expensive also.

  4. #4

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    Thank you both, David and Chuck, for pointing me to the correct sequence. I'll try again and see what difference it makes. It may be that the irregular spacing is related to not starting at the proper location as I recall having better results with the lever insert, at least.

    I'll also look for replacement inserts on eBay and other sources.

    Rich

  5. #5

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    I sent off my two inserts to Fred Lustig in Reno, NV. If he has the parts needed, if any, they'll be repaired, cleaned, lubricated, and adjusted. And, I've just responded to an APUG ad for another knob-operated 23, so I'll have another one or a source of parts.

    Rich

  6. #6

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  7. #7

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    I use Mamiya rb67 (but not rz67) backs with my century graphic. Much better built than the graflex (singer) backs. They are getting pretty cheap now on ebay too. They can be had for the same or less than a graflex back. Go figure.
    Rick Jason.
    "I'm still developing"

  8. #8
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricksplace View Post
    I use Mamiya rb67 (but not rz67) backs with my century graphic. Much better built than the graflex (singer) backs. They are getting pretty cheap now on ebay too. They can be had for the same or less than a graflex back. Go figure.
    Mamiya RB67 stuff is being closed out by Mamiya - a new 120 6x7 magazine costs £90 in UK, so I guess this has depressed the prices of everything else. One thing about RB magazines that incredibly enough I only noticed today - the back has a full-sized "parking" slot for the darkslide!

  9. #9

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    Maybe it's because the Graphic backs can be 6x9 (or close) not 6x7 as the RB. Lever 6x7 backs are much cheaper than lever 6x9's.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckP View Post
    Maybe it's because the Graphic backs can be 6x9 (or close) not 6x7 as the RB. Lever 6x7 backs are much cheaper than lever 6x9's.
    RH-10?



 

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