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  1. #11

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    It's great to see another young'un (I'm 22) interested in analogue! My progression has gone like this: 35mm-digi-4x5. Since only using 4x5 I've now added an RB to my collection (as of Monday) and to quote another member, I think it's the cat's ass! My perspective might be skewed coming from a 4x5 studio monorail, but the RB seems small and light to me! Most of the good film from 35mm is available in 120, and the bigger negative with the quality of the RB lenses should make a big difference.

    One thing I noticed when I shot 35mm and digi is that I tended to suffer from the Vacuum Cleaner Effect; this means that I took a photo of anything that looked like it could possibly make a good photo. I got some good ones, but was lucky if I got truly satisfactory shot from a roll of 36 frames. Learning 4x5 slowed me down a lot. In fact, I've taken 7 frames of my first 120 roll, and that includes bracketing! The slower pace of shooting had made 4x5, and now MF, much more affordable than I thought it would be. With the RB try to plan and think through your images more. This will be easier if you're tethered to a tripod. If you take your time with your shots and don't burn film too fast then I think you'll find yourself getting more good shots with the RB compared to the number taken, and keep your film costs reasonable. Another advantage is that with 10 frames per 120 roll you can experiment with different films more cheaply and easily than with larger formats. Seriously look at the tripod; it slows you down and helps your images stay sharper, especially when shooting in with the mirror locked up. Keep us posted on your progress!

    - Justin

  2. #12
    MP_Wayne's Avatar
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    Congratulations and welcome to the RB67 club! Like you I started in 35mm, then went to 4x5 monorail, and then on to the RB67. I love all three formats for different reasons, subjects and purposes. However, for sheer overlap of portability and quality, the RB67 is hands down my favourite.

    A previous post mentioned a square format. That is not entirely correct. The RB67 is a 6x7 format in its standard mode. However, you can get 6x4.5 film backs (and masks) and 6x6 film backs for the RB67. That's the beauty of the system - you are not locked into a particular format, unlike some other MF cameras.

    Now seems to be a golden age for buying RB67 lenses (with many pros dumping out to go digital). Watch/monitor eBay and other retailers like KEH and you can get lenses in good condition for as low as $100 or $1 per mm focal length, whichever is higher.

    Film backs, anywhere from $25 to $75 depending on condition. If they need new seals, it's an easy thing to do. Just order the materials for a few dollars from www.micro-tools.com, or if you don't want to cut the materials, then order the seals from Mamiya USA. You can get the felt darkslide seals/traps from Mamiya USA for a few dollars each. I have redone several of my 10 or so backs (I like to shoot lots of different films and formats) and each one takes about 40 minute to an hour. Best part is that they are like new when done.

    If buying lenses, hold out and purchase "C" lenses. It will have a green "C" in the lens mouth. These are later generation lenses and are multi-coated.

    For a field case, I use a LowePro Nature AW (the large one) and it holds a body, 6 lenses, 2 or 3 backs, both macro tubes (also cheap - as little as $50 each).

    For metering, I started LF (and use it with the MF too) with a used Pentax 1 degree spotmeter. You can probably get a used one for your budgeted $100 or perhaps a tad more. I have since moved on to a Sekonic 558, but I kept the Pentax as a backup because it is a great meter.

    Have a bunch of fun in your new adventures in Mamiya RB67-land!


    " Be happy. Take a silver break today !!!"
    MP_Wayne

  3. #13

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    Wow, thanks for the fast replies guys!

    I don't have the camera just yet though have to wait until after my birthday (3rd)

    I find myself not to have the "Vacuum effect" Took me close to 2 months to use a 36 exposure roll of 35mm >.<

    Whats better? A analog or digital light meter? Analog seems better for the nostalgia but I'd want one thats going to be accurate aha.

    I'm probably going to do still life/scenery/portraits with it.

    And the 4490 refurbished sounds like a good idea..

    Thanks for the replies guys!

  4. #14

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    Either a digi or analog meter will be as accurate as you need, assuming the meter functions correctly.
    HOW you use it and things like calibrating your film speeds to your work methods is a greater determinate of accuracy than the display.

  5. #15
    MP_Wayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdial View Post
    Either a digi or analog meter will be as accurate as you need, assuming the meter functions correctly.
    HOW you use it and things like calibrating your film speeds to your work methods is a greater determinate of accuracy than the display.
    What he said... as long as the meter is functioning properly, either analog or digital is fine... then it is up to you the user.


    " Be happy. Take a silver break today !!!"
    MP_Wayne

  6. #16

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    Besides the metered prism finder for the RB, there's a metered magnifier finder that generally goes for around $100 on ebay. It's just like using a waste level finder with a magnifier, except that it has a meter and it's not collapsible like a WLF.

    Quote Originally Posted by MP_Wayne View Post
    If buying lenses, hold out and purchase "C" lenses. It will have a green "C" in the lens mouth. These are later generation lenses and are multi-coated.
    I would take that a step farther and say hold out for the K/L lenses. Lately they've been going for about the same price, or just a little more than the C lenses on ebay. There aren't as many of them though, so you have to keep an eye out for them to come up.

  7. #17
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    I would take that a step farther and say hold out for the K/L lenses. Lately they've been going for about the same price, or just a little more than the C lenses on ebay. There aren't as many of them though, so you have to keep an eye out for them to come up.
    That's true but, if I remember correctly, the K/L lenses only fit the Pro SD model with the wider lens mount. Mamiya recommend fitting an adaptor ring to the C lenses when using them with a Pro SD.

    Mamiya have a frequently asked questions page here: http://www.mamiya.co.uk/index.php?content=FAQ&faq_id=39



    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  8. #18
    Dave Miller's Avatar
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    Welcome from Middle England from another RB67 user. Great system. It looks like your questions have been answered, so I won't add to them except to say you may get greater help with the scanner issue from our sister site http://www.hybridphoto.com/forums/
    Regards Dave.

    An English Eye


  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    That's true but, if I remember correctly, the K/L lenses only fit the Pro SD model with the wider lens mount.
    Oh no, that's not the case at all, they fit the regular RB pro, and the Pro S. The K/L lenses came with the adapter ring included because the Pro SD bodies were on the shelves when the K/L lenses came out (I had an adapter ring that came with a K/L lens and I sold it). There are actually only 2 lenses that only fit the Pro SD, one is a 500mm, and the other is a shift/tilt lens (both are outrageously expensive).

  10. #20
    MP_Wayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    Besides the metered prism finder for the RB, there's a metered magnifier finder that generally goes for around $100 on ebay. It's just like using a waste level finder with a magnifier, except that it has a meter and it's not collapsible like a WLF.
    One comment on the metered prism finder for the RB67. I have an RZ67ii also, with the FE701 AE prism finder and that combination works MUCH better than the PD metered prism finder I have on my RB. The PD prism finder is just not nearly as accurate or responsive as the FE701 is on the RZ67ii. Also, the PD prism finder, when working, only tells you what to set on the RB67. You still have to set the aperature and shutter speed, and compensate for filter factors, etc (as it is not integrated like on the RZ67ii).

    SO, if you are on a budget (or you would rather use those funds to buy lenses), skip getting a metered prism finder for your RB and get a good, more accurate and reliable spot meter. You will not regret having a good spot meter. If you want a prism finder still, rather than a waist level type, just get an unmetered one (they are very reasonable on eBay).


    " Be happy. Take a silver break today !!!"
    MP_Wayne

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