Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,971   Posts: 1,523,546   Online: 832
      
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 31 to 37 of 37
  1. #31
    MP_Wayne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta Canada
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    315
    Images
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    I didn't have a PD prism but I did have a CDS metered prism and found it to be very accurate when compared against my RZ AE prism (I also have the FE701), and against my digital Pentax spot meter. I liked the CDS magnifier (chimney) finder better though. I found both the CDS prism and the CDS magnifier finder to be easy to calibrate myself just by removing the dial and repositioning the plate inside (I recalibrated both of them to be accurate with a brite screen I was using, and then recalibrated them back for the regular screen when I sold my RB gear).
    Very interesting. You have me thinking I might have a bum PD prism... Do you know, max_ebb, if a PD can be "home" calibrated like your CDS? That might be a worthwhile exercise for me. The reason I was so down on the PD before was because it was so out of whack compared to the FE701 and my Sekonic 558 (the latter two track within 1/2 stop of each other). But perhaps my PD just needs a tweak like you did with your CDS. Hmmmm...

    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    Yes, you still have to set the aperture and shutter speed when using a metered finder on an RB, but you don't have to compensate for filter factors or bellows/extension tube factors because you're still metering through the lens.
    Absolutely correct (I write corrected). I am so used to working with the spot meter and doing the "in my head" bellows/filter factoring with my 4x5, so I guess I tend to do the "manual" process on the RB as well (especially because of my apparently bum PD prism) - damn thing!


    " Be happy. Take a silver break today !!!"
    MP_Wayne

  2. #32

    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    232
    Quote Originally Posted by MP_Wayne View Post
    Very interesting. You have me thinking I might have a bum PD prism... Do you know, max_ebb, if a PD can be "home" calibrated like your CDS?
    I've never had one, but just from looking at the dial on the RB PD prism, I'd guess probably yes (it looks a little different than the CDS dial, but very similar). With the CDS, you can unscrew the silver thing in the middle with your fingers, and there's a spring behind it. Once you remove that you can remove the dial that you pull out and turn to set the film speed. The plate behind that has 2 screws, one in a slotted hole and one in a small hole, and there are lots of other small holes. If you loosen the screw in the slotted hole and remove the screw in the small hole, you can turn the plate, and different small holes will line up with different threaded holes as you turn it (there are lots of threaded holes behind the plate). This sounds really strange, but that's the way it is with the CDS metered finders. You just have to know which direction you need to turn it, and approximately how far to turn it before you start.

    Is your PD prism reading too fast or too slow? Are you using a brighter screen than a regular RB screen? Are you setting the finder for the lens you're using (3.8, 4.5, 6.3, 8)? With all the RB metered finders, you have to set them for the lens that you're using. If nothing else, you can compensate when you set the film speed if it's consistently off a set number of stops.

  3. #33
    MP_Wayne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta Canada
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    315
    Images
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by max_ebb View Post
    Is your PD prism reading too fast or too slow? Are you using a brighter screen than a regular RB screen? Are you setting the finder for the lens you're using (3.8, 4.5, 6.3, 8)? With all the RB metered finders, you have to set them for the lens that you're using. If nothing else, you can compensate when you set the film speed if it's consistently off a set number of stops.
    Thanks! I will try, on the PD, the process you suggest on the weekend. To your question, it was reading too slow in virtually all instances. I tried the battery replacement route first with no effect. And, as I had my trusty Sekonic 558 around my neck, I just gave up on it (plus I had the FE701 on the RZ anyway). However, I will give it a whirl, and as you suggest, I can always compensate for the film speed (which I planned to do when using a brightscreen anyway). But, because it was always off, again, I just gave up on it and reverted to the Sekonic.

    To your earlier comments about the 6x8 motor film backs - I purchased one recently and have not had a chance to use it. However, I am looking forward to trying it out.


    " Be happy. Take a silver break today !!!"
    MP_Wayne

  4. #34

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Dedham, Ma, USA
    Shooter
    Med. Format Pan
    Posts
    625
    I would take that a step farther and say hold out for the K/L lenses. Lately they've been going for about the same price, or just a little more than the C lenses on ebay. There aren't as many of them though, so you have to keep an eye out for them to come up.[/QUOTE]


    This is true!

    The KL lenses in the longer focal lengths beyond the 180mm (telephoto) are not as readily available as they were a year ago. I base this on checking KEH listings for the past year.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  5. #35

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Shooter
    Med. Format Pan
    Posts
    354
    Get the RB, look for 90mm, 127mm and 180mm for starter lenses, later you might want the 140mm, 150mm 65mm and 250mm. look for a cheap spot meter or just go with a reflected meter like a gossen pilot ($30ish on eBay). A good thing to have on the RB is a handle, (pro or dotline --less than 20 bux). Also look for a hefty tripod, you are nearing 10 lbs of camera here. and another good item is a second film back ---guaranteed to come in handy.

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Dedham, Ma, USA
    Shooter
    Med. Format Pan
    Posts
    625
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Searust View Post
    Get the RB,....Also look for a hefty tripod, you are nearing 10 lbs of camera here.....
    Some people, me included, follow this rule:

    heavy camera/light tripod; light camera/heavy tripod.

    It's the combined weight that counts the most if the tripod is well built. Obviously heavy everything is better if weight is no issue. It is for me when I backpack into remote locations, especially at high altitudes. Light tripods are also more compact, a real benefit when packing it in. I'm not talking ultralight here, there are limits to this rule.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  7. #37

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    21
    Thanks a lot for the help guys.. Has made the decision making tons easier!

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin