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  1. #1

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    Shoddy Sekor lens

    I've just bought a secondhand 65mm Sekor off eBay for my mamiya c330s. I though all was well with it until last night, it's very clean and the glass is bright. I noticed the front element of the taking lens has got a bit of give in it though. It's able to rattle back and forth although only by a very minimal distance. Will this have a big impact on the images I'm taking. I'm a bit worried now because I've already left positive feedback.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarvman View Post
    I've just bought a secondhand 65mm Sekor off eBay for my mamiya c330s. I though all was well with it until last night, it's very clean and the glass is bright. I noticed the front element of the taking lens has got a bit of give in it though. It's able to rattle back and forth although only by a very minimal distance. Will this have a big impact on the images I'm taking. I'm a bit worried now because I've already left positive feedback.
    Probably not. Slight lateral movement should have no impact, IMO.
    "Pictures are not incidental frills to a text; they are essences of our distinctive way of knowing." Stephen J. Gould

  3. #3
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jarvman View Post
    I've just bought a secondhand 65mm Sekor off eBay for my mamiya c330s. I though all was well with it until last night, it's very clean and the glass is bright. I noticed the front element of the taking lens has got a bit of give in it though. It's able to rattle back and forth although only by a very minimal distance. Will this have a big impact on the images I'm taking. I'm a bit worried now because I've already left positive feedback.
    At the risk of stating the obvious, if something''s rattling, it's loose (it could have loosened on its way to you). If (and only if) you have the right tool (a slot-ring key), you could tighten it yourself, otherwise have a repairman do it, as improvized tools inevitably slip and gouge the lens surface. Even a slightly loose lens component will not be correctly spaced and will affect sharpness a little, the main point of course is that if it's a little loose, there's not much to stop it loosening a lot more!

    Regards,

    David

  4. #4

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    What exaclty is a slot ring key and how much do you roughly think it'd cost to repair?

  5. #5
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    This is a cheap one. which I don't particularly recommend, but it shows you what one looks like:
    http://www.filmtools.com/lenandfilspa.html

    Better one:
    http://www.pictureline.com/products/...panner_Wrench/

    Regards,

    David

  6. #6

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    What exactly is the difference between those two tools? I have one of the japanese clone versions, and there are indeed things that I do not like. But it was much less than that Kalt, and looks to be identical.

    If I was to make it better, I would put locking screws on the lower rod too. Or fix one end of each rod to provide a better support.

    You can find these tools all over Ebay shipped directly from Japan, but I found that after shipping the price was the same as buying from a company here in the USA. (search "camera tools" on ebay) also check here http://www.micro-tools.com/

    I suggest a set of these wrenches, you need one with a wide flat tip, one with a narrow flat tip, and one with a pointed tip. Having straight sides can sometimes be good, but you could reverse the tips that point in to make them point out, which will then get you deep inside a lens barrel.

    Having made repairs with improvised tools, there is nothing like having the "correct" tool to make this less stressful.

  7. #7

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    Just use the edge of a rubber stopper pressed against the ring. The friction between the stopper and the ring will get it tight enough for government work.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  8. #8
    David R Munson's Avatar
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    FWIW in a pinch you can also use two mechanical pencils with metal tips as a pin spanner for lens retaining rings. Not the best, but it does work. Also, two jeweler's screwdrivers.

  9. #9
    David H. Bebbington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg_E View Post
    What exactly is the difference between those two tools? I have one of the japanese clone versions, and there are indeed things that I do not like. But it was much less than that Kalt, and looks to be identical.

    ...

    Having made repairs with improvised tools, there is nothing like having the "correct" tool to make this less stressful.
    The feature of this tool is that a very small portion of the extremities of the arms is subject to very heavy stress - very poor metal may well fracture under these conditions, even somewhat better metal will wear quickly to the point where the tool tips slip out of the slots and gouges the lens, causing damage much more costly than buying a pro-quality tool in the first place.

  10. #10

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    I'm fed up of this camera already. Hopefully the seller will take the lens back seeing as they have a return policy. I've already relisted the c330s on eBay if anyone is interested haha. I never realised you're unable to change the lenses mid roll with a TLR which is no good at all. I'm looking at a modular 6x6 SLR now. A seller on eBay accepted my reckless drunken offer of £190 for a RZ PRO with viewfinder at 2 in the morning. Is that a good price? My entry into 6x6 isn't going well at all.

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