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  1. #11
    paxette's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeklensch View Post
    Is there a way you could suggest to decrease the 120 spool diameter? Could they be ground down some way?
    I cut a 120 spool down and glue a popsicle stick into the end, like this. The film gets wound onto a spare 35mm canister.

    Because I did this for the holga I never bothered with the other end but, I suspect if you cut another 120 end off and made another blade with a groove in it for the other end of the film canister it just might work.

    hope this helps

  2. #12

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    Yet another awesome idea. Thank you so much,... it does help

    Mike

  3. #13

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    If you're using an RB67 back, you'll need to use the paper from a roll of film if you want the frame counter to work, because the little wheel that drives the frame counter is at the outer edge of the frame. Obviously, having the frame counter work isn't critical though.

  4. #14
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    Hi. I'm fairly new to medium, and this is something I'd like to try. I have a Pentax 645, and I noticed in the manual (and looking, of course, at the 120 and 220 backs) that there are two "contacts" on the plate. I didn't find out in the manual how they are relevant to camera operation.

    If 35mm were loaded, not touching either contact, does it basically mean the camera assumes the back is empty? If so, is there a workaround? thanks.

  5. #15

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    Hello. I am new to all of this kind of thing, and I have what may be a dumb question. I recently started using 35mm film in an old Brownie I have. I don't develop my own photos, so how do you get the lab to develop them with the sprocket holes?

    Thanks.

  6. #16

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    Tyro, you should tell your lab to print the photos so the sprocket holes will show. If they just run thru their machine, they wont show the holes. This may add to printing cost at your lab. They need to print using medium format mask (or something), I dont know exactly how they do it for these. If you check on the Flickr.com or Squarefrog.com web sites and look for Sprocket holes they will describe it much better than I do. And, be SURE to tell them to hand cut the negatives (if you want them cut) as they will NOT be the standard 24x36mm image size.

    http://www.flickr.com/groups/holga13...7603581821777/

    I hope this helps you. And Welcome to the APUG group!

    Paul
    Last edited by pauliej; 02-23-2008 at 11:12 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

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    Rollei used to make a 35mm adapter for its TLRs. Rolleikin was its name, I believe. Not all camera models would accept the adapter. They used to turn up at photo swap meets once in a while, so they are available somewhere. Such an adapter may be too perfect for the effect you seek.

    Peter Gomena

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by pgomena View Post
    Rollei used to make a 35mm adapter for its TLRs. Rolleikin was its name, I believe. Not all camera models would accept the adapter. They used to turn up at photo swap meets once in a while, so they are available somewhere. Such an adapter may be too perfect for the effect you seek.

    Peter Gomena
    That adapter is like the Yashica 635 adapter and it has a mask that keeps the sprocket holes from being exposed. It gives you 24x35 (or so) mm images.

    The nice thing about the Yashica is the 80mm lens makes a nice portrait lens.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  9. #19

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    I regularly use a Rollekin adapter on my Rolleiflex 2.8E. I shoot 35mm for things I sell on ebay (it's a business with me). The adapter works very well - it is thoroughly professional. As someone else pointed out different Rolleikins were used with different Rollei's so make sure you get one that works with your camera.
    Steve Perry

  10. #20

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    Check out this easy tutorial that I followed.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/dfluff/338685642/

    Here's a photo I shot using this technique.
    http://farm1.static.flickr.com/253/5...0397d539_o.jpg

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