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  1. #11
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    I've been considering this system myself, but am used to Zeiss lenses from my Rolleis, to Contax. Is there an adapter to use Zeiss glass on here, and if so, which Zeiss? (Hassy, Rollei, etc). This would be to get away from the small sized 35mm negative altogether, and stay in MF alongside my Rolleis.

    Thanks,
    Rolleijoe
    If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.

  2. #12
    Rvoge's Avatar
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    Pentax 645

    Hi,

    I have a 645NII that I bought on ebay, 2 years ago and I am very happy with it.It's a great camera very handy to use, I have mostly used it for B&W portraits and I am very happy with the results.

    Rachel

    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfeye View Post
    I just picked one of these up off eBay. Just the 645, 75mm 2,8 lens, and 120 insert. Probably "overpaid" for it, but oh well. I don't see many folks using this beastie here - is it a great camera? A pretty good camera? Anything I should watch out for, like, common problems this model has or tends to develop?

    Thanks in advance. I have several rolls of Ilford Pan F and Fuji Reala to shoot!

  3. #13

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    Thanks for all the comments!

    I have taken two rolls and so far, so good. After the first few shots were user-error messed up, the camera worked fine. I don't know about the screen "brightness" that seems a common praise for this model... in our house, with rather limited lighting, I find it hard to focus precisely, which is critical when using f 2.8 on the 75mm lens. It was easy to focus outside in bright light.

    It handles GREAT. Love that! I can use it around the house, which I never did with my first 645 (Mamiya 1000S). The 75mm lens is excellent.

    B&W next!
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  4. #14

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    I'm always raving about mine. I love the push-button interface. The 75mm lens is probably the sharpest i've ever owned. The viewfinder is the weak point, in the sense that it can get loose and wiggle around, the diopter can get loose too and shift in the middle of a session as well. I used a dab of hot glue and a table tennis 'ping pong' ball cut in half, then cut into thin strips as a sort of shim to fit around the viewfinder tube and body. The hot glue comes off easy and clean as well.

    Might be more than you wanted to hear.. I can go on and on sometimes.

  5. #15

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    Some odd B&W results

    I shot a roll of HP5 at ASA 400 and developed it. Printed a few shots up to 8x10. One of the test shots was of my camera collection, some 40+ odd pieces or so, shot with a flash bounced off a white ceiling.

    At 1/125th second.

    Oops! The flash sync for the Pentax 645 is 1/60th, should have read the manual first, I suppose... but wait! There's more! None of the shots were affected. Not that I can tell. The flash sync seemed to work fine at 1/125th sec. Was I lucky?

    I am semi-disappointed with the lens, however. At f11 is it reasonable to expect all the cameras be in pretty sharp focus? I wouldn't call my results sharp (will post a scan of an 8x10 later) at least not compared to a shot taken with a Canon 5D and an "L" lens, also at f11. Do I need to stop down even more with medium format? The area the cameras occupied, front to back, was no more than 2.5 feet, and I focussed on a middle camera.
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  6. #16

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    You will have less depth of field with the 645 when used at the same aperture as an equivalent lens on 35mm.

    I can't help you about the flash synch. I've never used flash with my P645's.

  7. #17

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    I always thought that you could use shutter speeds at the synch speed (1/60th) and faster. *shrug*

    Which lens are you disappointed with? The 150? Have you adjusted the diopter? The rubber ring with -'s and +'s around the viewfinder? If you haven't, a good way to check is to remove the lens and activate the meter by pressing the shutter release button down halfway. Adjust the ring left or right until the LED readings are at their sharpest. Or you can stick the camera on a tripod and focus at infinity and adjust it using that.

    I can tell you from experience that an incorrectly adjusted diopter can make every picture soft or even blurry.

    I can also attest to the 75mm being the sharpest lens I own.

  8. #18
    craigclu's Avatar
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    I'll second Phillip's comments.... The diopter adjustment has tripped me up a couple of times. The little 75mm is an honest optic and will give results that should satisfy most anyone. I have owned a P67 system and had accumulated quite a few lenses over the years. The 645 is much brighter and easier to focus and with the adapter, I can use the P67 lenses on the 645 with good success. Keep us posted on the focus issue.
    Craig Schroeder

  9. #19

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    Soft Image

    Here's a scan of an 8x10 print. I printed it with as sharp a focus as I can see with my enlarger. The photo was shot on Ilford HP5 at ASA 400, f11, 1/125th sec, handheld, with a flash bounced off the ceiling and a little front fill flash too. The image is printed on Promaster RC variable contrast paper with #1 filter.

    http://www.wolfeye.smugmug.com/photo...21_hngX5-O.jpg

    Now to me, this looks soft. Is it? Or is HP5 the culprit, lacking sharpness? I have another shot of this setup in the camera right now on Pan F, which should be as sharp as possible, f8 this time. I'll develop and print when the roll is finished and post for comparison.
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  10. #20
    narsuitus's Avatar
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    You are right—the image is uniformly soft. Assuming the problem is the camera and not the enlarger, I would run some test shots. I would use a tripod to eliminate camera movement as a variable. I would try different f/stops, different camera to subject distances, and I would bracket focus. I would use a loupe to evaluate the images on a light table.

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