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  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc View Post
    ...
    I really liked the S that I had but it didnt last. On the S you focus using the knob on the side. The S2 and S2a changed from a rack-and-pinion focus to a helical focus. That means that you have to use the (Rather large) ring around the lens to focus. This is quite a pain but is improved alot if you can find one of the lever attachments. ...
    One interesting and rather strange note about these cameras is that the helical focusing mount is separate from the lenses. It is also removable from the camera, just like the lenses. I have only one focusing mount, and all three lenses that I have (50, 75, and 150mm) fit it and focus properly. But the focusing mount is made for a 75mm lens, and the scale values only apply to that lens. It is only a very minor problem not having a focus scale for the other lenses, however. The important thing is that the helical focusing mount is separate from the lenses and that the 75mm one seems to work with everything.

  2. #32
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    The later versions of the mount have scales for 50mm, 75mm, 135mm and 200mm, and there are versions with the scales in meters and others with the scale in feet. Any lens that fits, though, can be used on the same helical. One attraction of this design is that shorter lenses will focus very close on the helical.

    There were other helicals for longer lenses. Komura made a set with 300mm, 400mm, and 500mm heads that came with a long helical called the Uni Helical II. Nikon also made long lenses with their own long helical, but theses are usually rare and quite expensive. If you can get one of these long helicals, you can adapt other long lenses to them, just like you can adapt LF lenses to the screw mount on the regular helical.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  3. #33

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    I purchased a new S2 in January 1969 and the only change I made was to replace the original urethane foam under the ground glass with mole skin. This modification was outlined in detail a few years ago on the Bronica website. I've always wound the film using the knob on the magazine, then cocked the shutter using the main winding knob. This takes longer but reduces the stress on the winding mechanism. I have the 105mm Nikkor leaf shutter lens and it is very sharp.

  4. #34

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    Bronica is my first bought MF camera and i still trust her today
    but one question...where the hell do you guys find your lenses because i cant find nothin D: (sorry to hijack)

  5. #35
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    eBay, keh.com, www.kohscamera.com, and the Bronica group on Yahoo!Groups. There are a lot of interesting things for sale over there right now. Tony Hilton, who wrote a book about the Bronica system is selling off his collection, and he has a lot of unusual and rare items.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

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