Could someone please verify the operation of a good back and see if the white indicator and mechanical stop are synchronous? This can easily be done with an empty A12 back. I don't want to burn a bunch of film unnecessarily and your contribution will help confirm or deny my hypothesis prior to further testing.
In my case the white indicator and stop are synchronous. But I learned from a CLA that you can count the turns when you spool the film to the first frame. This must be 10 turns and a little bit lets say about 20º. In that last part of the turn the white indicator is coming into the window.
Hope this will help.
Perverting the loading procedure won't allow me a temporary fix and the proper solution is a CLA. Of course, I can cap the lens on the first shot and reliably shoot 11 properly spaced exposures until a CLA is done.
One back is already in the shop and this one will be following it shortly. It appears that the lubricants have long since hardened.
(I went back to the seller and he indicated that no servicing had been done in nearly 10 years. David Odess recommends servicing the equipment every 2-3 years with normal usage. My problems illustrate his point. Get your gear serviced regularly!)
Last edited by Fred Aspen; 07-01-2008 at 10:47 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Yes, Hasselblad needs CLA now and then to be a happy camera. Now, if you collect all the bits and pieces that will need the attention of the camera magician of your choice, I'm quite sure that a quote for all of your gear will be much better than a quote for each and every single piece.
E.g. I had some 5 items (a stuck shutter on a C lens, an A12 mag, three LF shutters), which all were repaired/CLA'd for less than the CLA cost for two times one LF shutter. The C lens was maybe worth $100 before the CLA (as it didn't work) and $350 after. I.e. selling the C lens after repair paid for the repair and CLA of all the items.
I also had a back with this problem and opened it up to have a look. The adjustment is via the three locking screws visible on the counter wheel in the attached picture. This was some time ago, but I seem to remember that a locking pawl (just visible near the "1" I think) falls into the cutout visible near the "7" to stop at the first frame. This needs to happen at exactly the same time as another pawl reaches the first frame position on the wheel which has cutouts for each exposure (sorry, I don't know the proper names). Anyhoo, if these two are out of synch, the first frame may overlap the second.
Yep, loosen screws and turn the wheel to the right position, then tighten. The other wheel with the cutouts for each exposure is on the same shaft but underneath the counter wheel (as I recall - this is streching the memory). A pretty easy fix really. I contacted David Odess to confirm that I was on the right track before I made the adjustment. He was kind enough to reply and confirm that I had the right idea.
You can feed a sacrificial roll through the back and mark the position of the first two exposures with a pencil to check the spacing. This is a bit tedious with all of the interlocks, removing the darkslide, etc, but worth it to know that you've got the adjustment correct.
A note of caution - if you remove the black frame that's on top of all of the gears then things can go SPROING! Don't ask me how I know... although I did get it all back together.
Thanks for the input and the photo. How about some general information on how to gain access? I am looking at the back and don't see a way in except for removing the screws on the frame surrounding the dark slide. Is this the proper route?
I've got the later version, A12-6x6, with the dark slide storage feature on the rear of the back.
Last edited by Fred Aspen; 07-03-2008 at 07:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.