Check out KEH's website, their accessories and such are listed with the model that it will fit. Takes the guesswork out and if you still have questions or just want to double check, you can always call them.
I prefer to buy from them rather than the bay anyway.
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Skeletons in my mind commence tearing at my sanity
"Are there any manual focus lenes the will not work on a 645 AFD? I'd like to get a few more primes and I'm not enamored of the prices I've seen for the AFD lenses. Plus I find I like shooting in manual mode more because the AF lacks the snappy response I'm used to from my EOS cameras.
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Gary Beasley"
All Mamiya manual focus lenses will work on the AF, AFD, and ADFII. You will have to use stop-down metering, meaning you set the aperture you wish to shoot using the command dial, (camera must be in M or Av mode) and compose, focus and meter with lens wide open. Then set aperture ring on lens to match what you set on the command dial and shoot. If you are using Av mode, make sure you hit the AE lock before you stop down or the camera will meter will compensate, thinking that f/8 is wide open for example. This takes some getting used to, but for primes, it's not that bad. I think the cost difference is justified, but with zooms, I wouldn't recommend getting a MF lens unless you don't expect to take to many hand-held shots (it will take forever to set up each shot, especially when you change focal lengths). I myself am planning to buy a 35 mm MF lens for my AFDII because they are so much less expensive used, but I am definitely going AF with a 55-110, even though I manually focus most of the time. Hope this helps.
Believe it or not, I have not even thought of looking at anyone else's . . . I'm trying to learn what accessories will fit those things while I drag my feet for 12 more days in hopes you weaken and drop the price some more. I'm a miser, see, and I try to steal cameras.
Seriously, I do want to get a MF kit that is a bit more advanced that my Omega Rapids and Zenobia folder! A friend of mine up in Virginia had Mamiya 645 gear and he loved it . . . I was with him several times when he was shooting and it sure impressed me.
By the way, I just ordered a Mamiya 645 repair manual. That might indicate something . . . ?
Personally, I would shoot for a 1000s in the generation 1 bodies. And if you want a metered prism, the AE prism is the one to have. Eventually you will want the winder, so you might as well get it early. Take it apart and lube the gears really well, it will cut the noise in half. Too bad they didn't make it belt drive.
And remember, with the generation 1 bodies, you can not change rolls of film mid roll unless you want to sacrifice the remaining shots on the roll*. to do that you would need to go with the newer generation bodies with the film back (not the 645e body!). Also there is no TTL with the generation 1 or Super or regular Pro bodies.
*yes you can change them in a dark room or changing bag.
I guess I have gotten a bit spoiled by 35mm cameras . . . because of their smaller size, I just loaded up 2 or 3 bodies with different types of film (plus an unloaded spare), then just switched lenses to a different body to change films. Each body is labeled with what type film is in it.
Now, with the MF bodies generally somewhat bigger, that might not be the way to do it, as the size of the kit might be a bit unwieldy with 3 or 4 bodies in a BIG bag.
3 or 4 of the generation 1 bodies will weigh a very large amount. I would not even consider doing that unless I had no choice, and was packing so far away from civilization that there was no option. Film backs are light, but they do take a lot of room. If you get a motor drive ALWAYS make sure you have a manual crank to wind the film. The battery in the camera will last a long time with just metering and letting the shutter go, so if your winder goes dead, you can still shoot with the crank. To that I would also suggest one Super body, it has a mechanical (1/60 second) shutter release so that again if all else fails, you still have a manual method to fire the shutter. Unfortunately the Super has the worst shutter curtain design, when the curtain mechanism goes, throw the body away. They fixed this in the Pro bodies.
My favorite motor drive for the gen2 bodies is the one that takes the 2cr battery. It is belt drive so nice and quiet, and also light because it has such a small battery. The 6AA grips weigh a bit more.
If you want multiple bodies, I would say to of the gen2 in the bag, with lenses and at least 2 film backs. That is going to come in at more than 20 pounds (I haven't weighed mine but it is at least as heavy as a 20 pound sack of dog food). Then keep additional bodies/backs/whatevers in the car in a hard case. If you are hiking with the gear, think long and hard about exactly what you need. Remember that the fisheye lenses weigh a very large amount, especially if you opt for one of the Russian lenses to save a few bucks. My 30mm weighs about 8 pounds alone (all glass lens elements). My bag normally has a SUper and Pro body, 3 film backs, sometimes 4 if I bring the 135 back, 55mm-110mm-150mm-210mm lenses, 3 extension tubes, one or two winders, one or two prisms, waist level finder (always have this), one or two manual film cranks (again always have one), a light meter, and sometimes the 30mm and 80mm lenses. If I'm really going for serious, the bellows lens shade will be in their too and sometime the 500mm f5.6 will go on the outside which is another 5 or so pounds with its case.
You can cram all that stuff into a pretty compact bag, but it does get very heavy. Add your tripod onto that stuff, and if need be some digital equipment and it's a lot to carry at one time. (my tripod is at least 10 pounds).
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