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Thread: Fuji 670 quirks

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    278
    If you are using the T setting on a dark scene with small bright lights in it, the act of twisting the shutter speed ring off of T to close the shutter can cause enough movement of the camera to cause the bright lights to smear. In this case, you can use the "hat trick", where you hold a dark hat or black card up in front of the lens while you twist the ring. This of course assumes there isn't a bright light behind or above the camera illuminating the card.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    15

    Some idiosyncracies, but outweighed by positives

    1) More than a full crank.. yes. Remember, you are moving a huge piece of film. 9 cm vs. 3 cm of 35mm.
    2) No bulb... not a problem and inconsequential. If you tried to hold a camera this big still for bulb exposure, you'd probably blur the image focus.
    3) Unusual T (time exposure). Again, this is a big camera, so if you had to press the shutter button again, how would that be much of an advantage over using the "hat trick" and turning the shutter ring.

    All in all, it's just a different way of doing what you did with very managable 35mm cameras. The downside of the ease of operation of the 35mm... a negative less than 1/6th the size of the 6X7 or 6X9.

    I've owned three of the large Fuji rangefinders, currently still using a very durable G690bl and a later GSW690III. I also have had a large number of the GS 645 rangefinders and currently have a GA645Zi. All of the Fuji rangefinders had consistently similar idiosyncracies... all easy to incorporate into your use of them.

    My personal feeling is that the Fuji people could have thrown a couple more idiosyncracies into the mix and I would still consider the results from their cameras superior to most other Medium Formats I have used.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    343
    Quote Originally Posted by Keefe Borden View Post
    <snip>

    The second question revolves around the T setting, since there is no bulb. On my old Nikon rangefinder, T meant the shutter stays open after the button is pressed. It closed only after you twist the film speed dial to any setting other than T. (In my opinion, a completely useless setting given that there is a bulb setting right next to it. But I digress).

    <snip>
    Hi,
    Pardon my replying to your digression rather than the heart of you post. I suppose your methods and tools are different than mine but, depending on how it has been implemented, that "t" may be found to serve useful purposes. Here are some based on the various beaten Nikons lying about here, as always YMMV depending on brand and model.

    The most obvious is the elimination of a cable release, which the "b" setting depends on for its utility. The self timer, if provided, can be used to obtain a smooth release of the shutter. In some cameras this accrues the added benefit that the mirror is prereleased - thus eliminating another source of vibration. (yes, the self timer might also be combined with "b" to prerelease the mirror) On an F3 "t" also eliminates the need for batteries, meaning that long exposures are not battery dependent. On an F2 "t" enables (in conjunction with the self timer) timed speeds beyond one second. Other cameras have similar quirks.

    I certainly think a cable release ought to be part of one's kit but, like anything, it can be misplaced. A cable release, like a tripod, also seems to me to be one of those accessories that calls attention to the photographic act. The use of one can induce docents, caretakers, etc to decide that you are not a tourist taking holiday snaps. Sometimes blending in is the best defense against getting your privilege to photograph revoked.
    Celac

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