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Thread: Ensign Selfix

  1. #11

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    Camera shake?

  2. #12
    JPD
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    The best way to adjust the focus is to first check with a ground glass on the film plane, adjust the infinity focus, and then with film, turning the focus ring in very small steps between each shot.

    I use a numbered scale with eight markings for 6x9 or twelwe markings for 6x6. After taking the test shots I develop the film and study the negatives. If shot number three is the sharpest, I turn the mark the front element so the mark I have made on the mount corresponds with number 3 on the scale, put the focusing ring on and locks it in place.

    This way you take the film bulge in to account. I developed this method when I wasn’t satisfied with the results from my Zeiss Ercona II camera. I first adjusted the focus using a ground glass on the film plane. The results were better, but not enough. So I tried with this method, and was amazed by the difference. The Ercona II is now the sharpest 6x9 camera I have.
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  3. #13
    Murray@uptowngallery's Avatar
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    Apologies if I missed anyone else who said this:

    The lens is probably a 4 element design similar to a Tessar or other 4 element anastigmat. With such lenses, it's usually recommended/necessary to stop down to at least f/11, and with all 6x9 folders, it's good and oft-given advice to open the bellows BEFORE winding to the next frame. The extension of the bellows can create suction that can pull the negative away from the pressure plate (toward the lens), resulting in inconsistent focus.

    Stopping down to f/11 or further also applies to triplet folders. (To get sharpness across the entire negative)
    Murray

  4. #14

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    Jpd.
    Never thought about fine tuning the focus like you have, and it also looks like you are talking about very small amounts of adjustments in focus.
    One advantage with a Selfix 820 is the double exposure prevention thingy - unless you use a cable release to fire the shutter that is. This device means its easy to first fold out the camera, then wind on the film from the previous shot, because the shutter wont fire again untill the film is wound on, and assuming the film pressure plate is doing its job, there is no reason why the film, at this stage should not be as flat as it gets.
    I suppose different films do actually have different qualities when it comes to lying flat, but for me the most important improvement in that area was to check out how effective the pressure plate was, and in my Selfix 820 it was crap! - not enough pressure, and it missed in 2 opposing corners of the frame. I couldnt see how to take it off to improve the springiness, so I made it thicker, and without being able to see what it actually does to a loaded film, I now assume it keeps the film pressed against the guides.
    I know modern gear is generally dead good, but some of these old folders, (and the folks who use them know good ones and bad) are pretty good, and cheap, though they do seem to require though a fair amount of tinkering around with.

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