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  1. #11
    JPD
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    Quote Originally Posted by pellicle View Post
    Hi
    I suppose I could always try, but:
    • on what grounds (it does operate well)
    • its not exactly cheap to post to and from the USA
    • I've already contacted him and he didn't think there was much to see in the images
    • one may aruge that he is not selling new cameras only refurbing them as best as possible
    • people may consider this acceptable
    • You can probably fix it yourself.


    such as? I don't recall typing colour and the other words are spelt the same way in both English (as used by British, Canadians and Australians) and American (as used by Americans Koreans and Japanese).

    ;-)
    You wrote "neighbour", and I wrote "neighbor" (Though I prefer brittish english. I guess I'm too affected by all the americans on the net and boards like this )

    I hope you can solve the camera problem. The RF-Bessa is an excellent camera when it works properly. It was one of my best buys. I got mine for €40.

  2. #12

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    1mm perhaps less is quite a bit of play in a lens standard. If it's not held perpendicular to the focusing bed it could very well be your problem. When a folder is locked down I wouldn't expect to see or feel any movement at all, at least without putting some force on the standard.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPD View Post
    You wrote "neighbour", and I wrote "neighbor" (Though I prefer brittish english. I guess I'm too affected by all the americans on the net and boards like this )
    OMG, do they misspell that one too!


    :-)

    Seriously though the Bessar RF is fantastic. I'm very interested in the new Voigtlander / Fuji folder, but I just can't see it beating this camera for 'value for money' that my Bessa RF is ... besides I prefer 6x9 (mines a real 58mm x 88mm) over 6x7 (which will probably be 56mm x 66mm)




    John ... thanks for the input that 1mm play is a significant factor. I'll now try to 'sort it out' if I can.
    Theory: you understand why it should work but it doesn't
    Practice: it works but you have no idea how
    Here theory and practice meet, things don't work and I don't know why
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  4. #14

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    Pellicle,
    Just shim(forward) it with a match book cover or similar to test it.
    If it tests OK then you can figure out a permanent solution
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #15
    JPD
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    Quote Originally Posted by pellicle View Post
    Seriously though the Bessar RF is fantastic. I'm very interested in the new Voigtlander / Fuji folder, but I just can't see it beating this camera for 'value for money' that my Bessa RF is ... besides I prefer 6x9 (mines a real 58mm x 88mm) over 6x7 (which will probably be 56mm x 66mm)
    I fully agree. I have my 6x9 RF-Bessa with Heliar, Agfa Record II with coated Solinar and Ercona II with coated Tessar. (Plus plate cameras) I have only an enlarger for 6x7, but have made a 56 x 73mm neg holder that works well, so I don't lose so many millimeters anyway.

    It would be fun to own the "Voigtländer" Bessa III, but not sure how much I would gain in picture quality, and I don't believe the lens will be a real Heliar since it has six elements according to what I've read. Yes, I'm one of those. :rolleyes:

  6. #16
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    Hi

    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Pellicle,
    Just shim(forward) it with a match book cover or similar to test it.
    If it tests OK then you can figure out a permanent solution
    I thought I'd set up a test by putting the camera on a dead level surface with the back open and then putting a level across the lens. With the back open I find that the 'sides' which form the light trap with the back door are measurably even to the film plane. Putting a level across the lens I need to pull the lens down on the outside edge to bring it level (meaning pull in from the "top" if the flop out section and focus arms is the bottom).

    I found last night that by shimming a little the the two small arms on either side of the clamp for the "front standard" (see below)



    The little 'arm' at the bottom arrow pushes against the surface on the lens standard as it closes. I put some layers of 'masking tape' on there to add some thickness and effectively push the top back more. I this seems to fix the lens alignment (and makes the entire system more rigid too)

    A quick test with a ground glass and then with a cut down sheet of film this morning confirms that focus is now pretty parallel with the film plane
    Theory: you understand why it should work but it doesn't
    Practice: it works but you have no idea how
    Here theory and practice meet, things don't work and I don't know why
    Homepages: here Blog: here

  7. #17
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    you know, if you cut and past sentences and move them around enough, answer a few phone calls in the middle of your post you can make a complete muddle of what you're writing.

    reading my post above I wonder if anyone will ever make sense of that!
    Theory: you understand why it should work but it doesn't
    Practice: it works but you have no idea how
    Here theory and practice meet, things don't work and I don't know why
    Homepages: here Blog: here

  8. #18
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    ohh ... and reliance on spell checkers to pick up and highlight mistakes is bad because while "cut and past" is not a spelling error its not what I wanted to say.

    sigh
    Theory: you understand why it should work but it doesn't
    Practice: it works but you have no idea how
    Here theory and practice meet, things don't work and I don't know why
    Homepages: here Blog: here

  9. #19

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    Pellicle,
    don't worry you'll get past it.
    Since you have a temporary solution in hand, now you'll have to pretty it up a bit. Tape will either wear or compress with use.
    Can you estimate the thickness of the adjustment? If you can come up with a dimension, you can replace the tape with a sliver of brass attached to the arm or the surface the arm presses against.
    Here in the US I'd get the stock from a hobby shop. You could always use a piece of tin or aluminum from a beer or soda can attached with a piece of double faced tape.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  10. #20
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    John

    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    Pellicle,
    ... Tape will either wear or compress with use.
    Can you estimate the thickness of the adjustment? If you can come up with a dimension, you can replace the tape with a sliver of brass attached to the arm or the surface the arm presses against.
    Here in the US I'd get the stock from a hobby shop. You could always use a piece of tin or aluminum from a beer or soda can attached with a piece of double faced tape.
    yes, exactly. I have just been thinking what to use and how to attach the shim. Some heat-shrink came to mind but I am concerned that it'll also wear off soon, and I'm unsure how to attach a shim of (say) brass. I think its too thing for double sided tape, but perhaps it might be ok.

    I wonder if a thin 'bead' of silicon would do the trick?

    I can also see that there was a layer of something like 'powdercoating' or enamel on the structures which has since cracked / flaked off. I'm sure this has bee the cause of the extra play.
    Theory: you understand why it should work but it doesn't
    Practice: it works but you have no idea how
    Here theory and practice meet, things don't work and I don't know why
    Homepages: here Blog: here

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