I dont "trust" any meter Brandon because they see the world as 18% gray, consequently any reading should be subject to some consideration and interpretation, IMHO the secret of getting the best out of any meter is learning to recognise the situations that will fool it. I have a Sekonic L-358 and the 1degree spot agrees with the spot meter in my Canon T90 but knowing the correct tone to point them at is a different matter.
I took it a step further, got the 203 FE with internal focal plane shutter and built in 20% coverage light meter w/Aperture priority (there is a 1% spot version, 205 TTC). It has TTL/OTF metering, fast 2.8 (even 2.0) glass. I can adjust the ISO to compensate for film and lighting conditions (fill etc). The OTF sensor shuts down the flash ensuring proper exposure or fill. Overall I've been really happy. The disadvantages are increased price and flash sync at 1/90 and below/slower. The shutter goes to 1/2000 which is nice in bright sun and use of larger aperture for better control of DOF etc. I find it shoots more like a "35mm SLR", which is good and bad, I have a lot of bad candids that would be more structured if I was using a light meter etc. Dialing it all in with some test rolls should be your 1st assignment, stated well by "benjiboy" above.