Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,550   Posts: 1,544,733   Online: 980
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    218
    Blog Entries
    2

    Mamiya RZ67 Questions

    Hello:

    I am a new user of the Mamiya RZ67 system. I have a pile of equipment I have obtained on ebay and I suspect the problems I am having are related to the PRO I body I have.

    I have one RZ lens and One RB lens.

    The problems:

    1: The shutter speeds with the RZ lens all work except the Bulb setting...when I trip the shutter, and hold the button, the shutter just opens and closes as if it were set on the mechanical back-up.

    The long exposures all work (Up to 8 SEC) and the time exposure setting also works with or with out a cable release. Is this likely a problem with the lens or the body?

    Problem 2 is with a Power Winder II I just obtained: (ACTUALLY 2 problems)

    One seems to be related to the shutter release button on the camera:

    After making an exposure, I have to repeatedly tap the shutter button or slowly turn the button's locking mechanism before the winder will activate.

    Problem 2 with winder: If I load a fresh roll and push the start button, it will load and advance to frame 1 okay, but for any subsequent frames, the counter will advance, but the winder gets kinda stuck and keeps trying to finish cocking the camera. If I help it along by pushing on the manual advance lever while the motor is running, as if I am cocking it without a motor, the winder stops clicking and catches up.

    As I said, this is all used equipment, new to me, and I am not intimately familiar with the RZ system. I'm trying to confirm that I got a bum Body. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Lopaka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    759
    There are two things with the winder - you have to make sure the little trap door on the bottom of the camera is fully opened so that the gears can engage properly, and the winder has fresh batteries. This thing is an electro-mechanical device and eats batteries for breakfast. (I rarely use mine, so change the batteries once a year whether it seems needed or not.) You can check out the winder off the camera by turning it on and pressing the 'start' button. The gear should extend and rotate until you turn the power off. If this is ok, then it is probable that you have an electronics issue with the camera body. Being an electronic camera, repairs typically run $300 or more. Good luck.

    Bob
    "I always take a camera, That way I never have to say 'Gee, look at that - I wish I had a camera'" -Joe Clark, H.B.S.S.

  3. #3
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    218
    Blog Entries
    2
    Yeah, I tried those tests with the motor and it does seem to be okay itself. just goes to show there are few real bargains on ebay. Everything (EXCEPT BULB< WHICH I WILL PROBABLY NOT USE WITH THIS CAMERA ANYWAY) is fine if I just go without the motor. I have a test roll of transparencies out for processing, so truth will be told about where I stand very soon.

    I will probably upgrade the body to something newer eventually anyway.

    As for time exposures---there's a good reason to keep the 4x5 Field camera handy.
    Last edited by Tom Nutter; 04-21-2009 at 11:22 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: more info

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    813
    Images
    9
    Do you have a manual for the RZ?

    I remember that there is a tricky thing with the bulb setting. For anything longer than a minute, you need to use the T setting on the lens. I'll have a look later if you'd like...I need to refresh anyway...

  5. #5
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    218
    Blog Entries
    2
    Remember-- on the Bulb setting...the shutter closes immediately, really fast, just like as if the camera was either set at a high shutter speed or else on the mechanical release setting. I am wondering though if there is some specific sequence for shooting in Bulb.
    ...yes, I found a manual online.
    Thanks!
    Last edited by Tom Nutter; 04-21-2009 at 11:38 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: more info

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    813
    Images
    9
    Tom...do you have a new battery in the body?

  7. #7
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    218
    Blog Entries
    2
    ...Battery, good question. The battery I bought at the shop was supposedly new, but not in a package, though bought from someone I trust...HAHAHAHA!! Also, It was not a lithium battery, but a regular old PX28. The contacts are all clean. I just timed the longer shutter speeds ( 1sec-8 sec) with my trusty old wristwatch, and they all seem pretty okay.

    I guess a battery would be logical. Sometimes electronics do strange things with marginal batteries.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Pasadena, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    813
    Images
    9
    PX 28 should be fine, but just check to be sure...

    I just tried bulb on my RZ...pressed the shutter button and held it down for a minute. It started buzzing, as mentioned in the manual.

    Upon pressing, the mirror slaps (what a commotion!) and upon release the shutter clicks closed (softly, as in a morning sunrise)...

    Paul

  9. #9
    Tom Nutter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Eastern USA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    218
    Blog Entries
    2
    ...Ruled out the battery. I guess I need to check against another RZ lens.....by contacts...do you mean outside the lens? They are bright and shiny. I'm not sure about where to find them if I take the lens apart...YIKES!!


    I have however had all of the panels off the body ..mostly related to the problem with the motor. I cleaned some contacts having to do with the shutter release, and it seems a little snappier. Everything inside seems untampered with and clean otherwise.

    The only panel I couldn't get off was on the side with the hotshoe and the shutter speed dial. I suspect there are some screws under the hotshoe that I couldn't get to. I erred on the side of caution.

    ...and by the way...the problems are the same before AND after disassembly.
    Last edited by Tom Nutter; 04-21-2009 at 02:22 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: more info

  10. #10
    JLP
    JLP is offline
    JLP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oregon
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,596
    Images
    19
    Tom, Lens and camera body contacts can be finicky as i have recently learned. Even if contact are bright and shiny, give them a little rub with a clean linth free cloth, it does not take much for low current signals to get out of whack.
    _______________
    Jan Pedersen
    http://janlpedersen.com

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin