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  1. #11

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    Here is an example of what he is offering for $1450. Even though i have no experience with Hasselblad i feel this price is way out of line. Am i correct?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 220 mag back.jpg   500  cm body.jpg   CF 60mm.jpg  

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Thank you everyone for all the great help! The seller sent me photos and prices and i was shocked! The shocking thing was that he will not sell me a kit or 2. He wants to sell each piece separate, Back, lens, body (no price for an entire setup). $425 for a C/M body, $125 for a 220 back and $900 for a CF 60mm lens. I checked ebay for past sales and found all of his prices are more than Ebay and also there are no caps on the bodies and no front or rear caps on the lenses. I will pass on the equipment because i feel the prices are to high and it dosnt look like the equipment was cared for.

    Thanks again for all your help!!!

    From what I could see in the pictures you posted, it looks used as opposed to not "cared for". Most Hasselblad equipment were tools, so not babied. Especially if used for weddings.

    But I think he's living in the past as far as pricing unless he has records of recent CLAs for the equipment. I'm sure he's basing prices on what he paid, not the current market.

    220 backs generally go very cheap, given the relatively thin selection of 220 film now (I know some use 120 film in 220 backs). From what I've seen as lenses go, within any series, the 80 is cheapest (not surprisingly), followed by the 150, then the 50, then others.

    Note that there are C backs and A backs. The C backs have a little door in the back to align the first frame, then wind normally after that. They are older and cheaper. I have a couple and don't mind using them at all, but make sure the spring loaded door in the back is tight. The picture you showed is an A back. Make sure the s/n on the back itself matches the s/n on the insert, or adjust the price downward. Backs need the lightseals replaced after a while; a relatively simple and inexpensive diy project.

    Also, there are 2 types of 16 backs (16 exp per 120 roll). One produces a 6x4.5 negative and is desirable, the other produces a 4x4 negative for "super slides" and therefore is an albatross (but not very common).

    I have a 50, 80, and 150 for my 500C and use the 50 the most. I have no problem with the chome non-T* lenses. But I use a lens shade and most of the time use on a tripod so can shade the lens with a hat or gray card. Assume you'll want at least 2 backs. I find it much easier to use a prism finder rather than the wlf. Of course, all subject to personal preferences.

    You may already know this, but the shutter in the lens is cocked via a linkage from the body. Make sure there is not excessive wear on the body side or the lens side (looks like a flat head screw on the lens). Sometimes they get out of sync if the body is fired while off the lens. Here's info on that: http://photoweb.net/pw_tech/hassy_unjam.html

  3. #13
    bill schwab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Am i correct?
    You can probably do better, but it is not really that far our of line for good equipment. Just my 2 cents... I would stay away from the 220 back and if you're going for a wider lens than the normal 80mm, I would avoid the 60 and go for a 50mm. Personally I never liked the 60mm and I flat out hate 220 film.

    Good luck!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I was referring to the shutter speed and aperture rings keep the same EV number if you press the button on the ring for the Black Lenses. There is a slightly different way it works with the Chrome lenses but I do not recall the details clearly enough to put it on this thread - Q. G. can you elaborate, please?

    The Chrome lenses have two red arrows to show that depth of field - a nice touch.
    I see where the confusion arises: there are both "chrome" and black "C" lenses. I.e. not all black lenses are "CF" or later lenses.

    "C" lenses all work the same, no matter what colour. The black ones, for instance, also have the two moving DoF indicators. They are every bit the same, black or "chrome".

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I agree the 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens. Consider the 50mm 80mm [150mm] 250mm set [150 is not as likely to be used since it is only a factor of two longer] or the 50mm 1000mm 250mm set.
    Just to show that opinions vary a lot, i count the 60 mm lens among my favourites.
    It's close to the 80 mm, and that's exactly why i like it. Like the 80 mm, a very, very usefull all purpose lens. Great!

    But if the 60 mm will be all you have on the wide side, i agree that a wider spread between focal lengths would be better. So either a 50 mm, or - if you like it really wide - a 40 mm.

    The 150 mm is one of the favourites too, again exactly because it is rather close to the 80, still in the not-so-uncommon-working-distance range. It rounds of the 60 mm + 80 mm set nicely.

    My small walk-about kit consists of a camera, two magazines and the 60 mm and 150 mm lenses. There's almost nothing you can't tackle with that set.

    Having said that, the 250 mm too is a favourite. But it already is a bit of a specialist lens.

    I could never get really friendly with the 100 mm. It's often either a bit too long, or not long enough. It's the only lens in my kit that sits on a shelf, instead of in one of my equipment bags.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    So I do not really have a place for the 100mm lens in my stable. However, since yours sits on the shelf, how about sending it over here for extensive testing and exercise, to be returned after a year or two? Come on we both know that lenses are meant to be exercised to prevent CLAs.
    That's true.
    I might consider sending it to you for a while (i.e. i expect to get it back), but will have to ask for a small fee. About... uhm... how much do these lenses go for nowadays?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Henderson View Post
    Here is what I think about old chrome C lenses: I have a 50, 80, and 250 CF lenses, and the 150 chrome C. It is by far my favorite lens. It is the one that stays on my camera in the bag, and the one I use whenever possible. To my eye, it produces sharper negatives. If it were to break today and be unrepairable, I would immediately begin searching for a replacement. In fact, if you buy this kit and it comes with a chrome 150 that you do not want, I might buy it from you.
    That has nothing to do with the chrome barrel or the lack of T* coating. (Well, possibly the lack of multicoating does produce a softer tonescale which is more to your liking.) Else the only difference between your chrome 150 and a brand new one is the barrel and the shutter. They are optically identical. I.e. Zeiss made an excellent lens to start with and there's been no need to improve it.
    Don't get me wrong here. I own a black C type 150 and I love it. The only differences 'tween mine and yours is the black paint on the barrel and the multicoated lenses, where the multicoating doesn't matter that much on a long lens anyhow. (Multicoating does matter much more for e.g. a 50mm Distagon, where you much more often get direct lightsources in the frame. There are also more glass-air surfaces in the Distagon.)

    //Bj÷rn

  8. #18

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    I recently (in the last 4-6 weeks) went through KEH's listings for the following: WLF 501cm body, A12 back and 80mm CFE lens. The least expensive combination of those 3 items was approx. $1,450. KEH quoted buying a similar oufit in EX+ condition at $704. Perhaps if you explain the facts of life to the seller..............
    Wayne
    Deep in the darkest heart of the East Texas Rain forest. Apprentice Analog Activist.
    ... And to paraphrase Yoda, there is no how, only do.
    Vaughn
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  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Venchka View Post
    ...The least expensive combination of those 3 items was approx. $1,450. KEH quoted buying a similar oufit in EX+ condition at $704. Perhaps if you explain the facts of life to the seller..............
    This seems consistent with my previous looks at KEH buying/selling. They seem to typically buy at about 50% of their selling price. I generally think of the midpoint as being a fair price for a private party sale.

  10. #20

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    Exactly. And since I priced much newer items (like from this century), the OP's seller isn't offering a very good deal.
    Wayne
    Deep in the darkest heart of the East Texas Rain forest. Apprentice Analog Activist.
    ... And to paraphrase Yoda, there is no how, only do.
    Vaughn
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