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  1. #11

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    "Chrome" and black C lenses only differ in colour. No handling differences.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Q.G. View Post
    "Chrome" and black C lenses only differ in colour. No handling differences.
    I was referring to the shutter speed and aperture rings keep the same EV number if you press the button on the ring for the Black Lenses. There is a slightly different way it works with the Chrome lenses but I do not recall the details clearly enough to put it on this thread - Q. G. can you elaborate, please?

    The Chrome lenses have two red arrows to show that depth of field - a nice touch.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  3. #13

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    Thank you everyone for all the great help! The seller sent me photos and prices and i was shocked! The shocking thing was that he will not sell me a kit or 2. He wants to sell each piece separate, Back, lens, body (no price for an entire setup). $425 for a C/M body, $125 for a 220 back and $900 for a CF 60mm lens. I checked ebay for past sales and found all of his prices are more than Ebay and also there are no caps on the bodies and no front or rear caps on the lenses. I will pass on the equipment because i feel the prices are to high and it dosnt look like the equipment was cared for.

    Thanks again for all your help!!!

  4. #14

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    Here is an example of what he is offering for $1450. Even though i have no experience with Hasselblad i feel this price is way out of line. Am i correct?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 220 mag back.jpg   500  cm body.jpg   CF 60mm.jpg  

  5. #15
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Thank you everyone for all the great help! The seller sent me photos and prices and i was shocked! The shocking thing was that he will not sell me a kit or 2. He wants to sell each piece separate, Back, lens, body (no price for an entire setup). $425 for a C/M body, $125 for a 220 back and $900 for a CF 60mm lens. I checked ebay for past sales and found all of his prices are more than Ebay and also there are no caps on the bodies and no front or rear caps on the lenses. I will pass on the equipment because i feel the prices are to high and it dosnt look like the equipment was cared for.

    Thanks again for all your help!!!
    Good decision. Check out KEH.com. They are very conservative with their grading of equipment and they have a good return policy. I have used them for Hasselblad and Nikon equipment.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Thank you everyone for all the great help! The seller sent me photos and prices and i was shocked! The shocking thing was that he will not sell me a kit or 2. He wants to sell each piece separate, Back, lens, body (no price for an entire setup). $425 for a C/M body, $125 for a 220 back and $900 for a CF 60mm lens. I checked ebay for past sales and found all of his prices are more than Ebay and also there are no caps on the bodies and no front or rear caps on the lenses. I will pass on the equipment because i feel the prices are to high and it dosnt look like the equipment was cared for.

    Thanks again for all your help!!!

    From what I could see in the pictures you posted, it looks used as opposed to not "cared for". Most Hasselblad equipment were tools, so not babied. Especially if used for weddings.

    But I think he's living in the past as far as pricing unless he has records of recent CLAs for the equipment. I'm sure he's basing prices on what he paid, not the current market.

    220 backs generally go very cheap, given the relatively thin selection of 220 film now (I know some use 120 film in 220 backs). From what I've seen as lenses go, within any series, the 80 is cheapest (not surprisingly), followed by the 150, then the 50, then others.

    Note that there are C backs and A backs. The C backs have a little door in the back to align the first frame, then wind normally after that. They are older and cheaper. I have a couple and don't mind using them at all, but make sure the spring loaded door in the back is tight. The picture you showed is an A back. Make sure the s/n on the back itself matches the s/n on the insert, or adjust the price downward. Backs need the lightseals replaced after a while; a relatively simple and inexpensive diy project.

    Also, there are 2 types of 16 backs (16 exp per 120 roll). One produces a 6x4.5 negative and is desirable, the other produces a 4x4 negative for "super slides" and therefore is an albatross (but not very common).

    I have a 50, 80, and 150 for my 500C and use the 50 the most. I have no problem with the chome non-T* lenses. But I use a lens shade and most of the time use on a tripod so can shade the lens with a hat or gray card. Assume you'll want at least 2 backs. I find it much easier to use a prism finder rather than the wlf. Of course, all subject to personal preferences.

    You may already know this, but the shutter in the lens is cocked via a linkage from the body. Make sure there is not excessive wear on the body side or the lens side (looks like a flat head screw on the lens). Sometimes they get out of sync if the body is fired while off the lens. Here's info on that: http://photoweb.net/pw_tech/hassy_unjam.html

  7. #17
    bill schwab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by J Rollinger View Post
    Am i correct?
    You can probably do better, but it is not really that far our of line for good equipment. Just my 2 cents... I would stay away from the 220 back and if you're going for a wider lens than the normal 80mm, I would avoid the 60 and go for a 50mm. Personally I never liked the 60mm and I flat out hate 220 film.

    Good luck!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by billschwab View Post
    You can probably do better, but it is not really that far our of line for good equipment. Just my 2 cents... I would stay away from the 220 back and if you're going for a wider lens than the normal 80mm, I would avoid the 60 and go for a 50mm. Personally I never liked the 60mm and I flat out hate 220 film.

    Good luck!
    I agree the 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens. Consider the 50mm 80mm [150mm] 250mm set [150 is not as likely to be used since it is only a factor of two longer] or the 50mm 1000mm 250mm set.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I was referring to the shutter speed and aperture rings keep the same EV number if you press the button on the ring for the Black Lenses. There is a slightly different way it works with the Chrome lenses but I do not recall the details clearly enough to put it on this thread - Q. G. can you elaborate, please?

    The Chrome lenses have two red arrows to show that depth of field - a nice touch.
    I see where the confusion arises: there are both "chrome" and black "C" lenses. I.e. not all black lenses are "CF" or later lenses.

    "C" lenses all work the same, no matter what colour. The black ones, for instance, also have the two moving DoF indicators. They are every bit the same, black or "chrome".

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I agree the 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens. Consider the 50mm 80mm [150mm] 250mm set [150 is not as likely to be used since it is only a factor of two longer] or the 50mm 1000mm 250mm set.
    Just to show that opinions vary a lot, i count the 60 mm lens among my favourites.
    It's close to the 80 mm, and that's exactly why i like it. Like the 80 mm, a very, very usefull all purpose lens. Great!

    But if the 60 mm will be all you have on the wide side, i agree that a wider spread between focal lengths would be better. So either a 50 mm, or - if you like it really wide - a 40 mm.

    The 150 mm is one of the favourites too, again exactly because it is rather close to the 80, still in the not-so-uncommon-working-distance range. It rounds of the 60 mm + 80 mm set nicely.

    My small walk-about kit consists of a camera, two magazines and the 60 mm and 150 mm lenses. There's almost nothing you can't tackle with that set.

    Having said that, the 250 mm too is a favourite. But it already is a bit of a specialist lens.

    I could never get really friendly with the 100 mm. It's often either a bit too long, or not long enough. It's the only lens in my kit that sits on a shelf, instead of in one of my equipment bags.

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