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  1. #21

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    I have been wondering if my double cable release for my Canon Auto Bellows would work for my RB67's MLU. So far no success. Though I might be doing something wrong. I would like to use MLU for sharper photographs.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

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  2. #22

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    you don't really need a double cable release, just put the lens in M mode (MLU) and screw a release into the lens. fire the body, wait a few seconds and use the cable release to fire the shutter.


    erie

  3. #23

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    I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks!
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

    http://darkroom317.deviantart.com/

  4. #24
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc View Post
    Perhaps I need to check the focus registration on the camera.. Here is an example, with a cropped section.


    personally, I think its a very nice shot. The lower contrast and slightly blown out highlights help give it an "airy" feeling.

    but then again, I like lower contrast .

    but I will agree its not the sharpest shot overall though. most people who would look at it would see two young girls in a nice photograph, they probably wouldn't see the softness.

    -Dan

  5. #25
    MattKing's Avatar
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    I recently purchased a "well used" RB 90mm C lens to go with the "well used" 50mm C lens that came with the "well used" RB67 body, back and WLF that I purchased earlier this year.

    This set of equipment isn't pretty, and some of the functions are clearly quite worn (e.g. the pop-up magnifier in the WLF is hard to pop up).

    The lenses though seem to resolve incredible amounts of detail, and the contrast is very consistent.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  6. #26
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darinwc View Post
    Perhaps I need to check the focus registration on the camera.. Here is an example, with a cropped section.
    The girl in front is in sharp focus, extending to her near arm. The far girl is beyond the DOF of the lens. I don't know where you focused the camera - if it was for the average of the two girls faces then your camera is a bit off and focusing closer than it appears in the finder. The screen needs to be shimmed up; the problem can also be the rest position of the mirror is higher than it should be.

    As to contrast - looks OK, it's just that the shot is a 1/2 stop or so overexposed. It would have been better to stop down to more properly expose the background and use a reflector to light the girls' faces. I have taken to carrying a small collapsible reflector with me. Windshield sun screens make a very cost-effective reflector, they twist up the same way the photographic reflectors do.
    Last edited by Nicholas Lindan; 04-27-2010 at 10:58 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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  7. #27

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    Nickolas, I was going to say something similar to this - but for me, it's the eyes. The point of focus is not on the eyes which I think makes a difference. If you can, find a copy of Barry Thornton's "Edge of Darkness" I'm sure there are similar test, but all you have to do is print out or make a white board with vertical lines on it. On the center line, draw > < one on top, one on bottom, so you know which line is the center one. Then set up the camera at a known - read that Measured, distance. Set the card or board up so the center line is at that distance and inclined with one end closer to you and the other further away. Then focus the camera on the center line, develop the negs, make a print from them. The lines, being something like 1cm apart, will tell you if your point of focus on your camera is on, long or short. From there you can adjust the camera or your focus, whichever one you want. It did wonders for helping me understand why I was getting 'slightly off' photos for a while. Since doing this, I did shim the screen and now I tend to get pretty sharp images.
    Tim Flynn

  8. #28
    Athiril's Avatar
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    All my C's were fantastic, lost my 90 C :'(, still got and use my 180C and 65C, love them, they're brilliant.

    Inspect the lens elements by holding up to light, see if any has an oily coating or something etc, that can be easy to miss.

  9. #29
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    I had an RB with a 180 and a 90, both non-c lenses and loved them, no problems------but sold it to move into LF, which brings me to my next thought------last I checked,the RB and its lenses are a MF camera system-----this is the LF forum. Just a curious observation.

  10. #30

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    Its common for many new to the RB67 to forget or not know about the floating optical adjustment on many of the RB lenses. Without adjusting the floating element at the front of the lens to compensate for the distance of the subject many RB lenses will be soft to those unfamiliar with the RB system who forget to adjust the lens. Properly adjusted it will be sharp, assuming everything is in focus. You must adjust the floating element for each subject at varrying distances.

    Jim

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