Diana - need advice from other users

[Leon]

I second the dev times adjustment. I will meter a scene and push/pull accordingly as needed.

you meter when using a toy camera? that goes against the whole reason for using a toy camera. the unpredictability is key for me - thats not to say that you are wrong of course ...

www.leontaylor-photo.co.uk/toycamgallery.htm

[Mark Wangerin]

I imagine the meter only helps decide WHEN to pull the trigger. There are only three settings on a Diana: full sun, partly cloudy and overcast. What those translate to in f-stops I don't know. The shutter speed is fixed. I believe I heard around 1/100?

[Cheryl Jacobs]

Mark, the Holga is typically around 1/100. The Diana -- well, just depends on what yours happens to want to do. No way around testing that to get the answer.

[Leon]

mark - the problems with the Diana is that the Great Wall plastics company had such a poor quality control check, that nearly every Diana (and the 50 odd diana clones they produced) has a unique action and quirkyness - what turns out to be 1/100 on one Diana will turn out to be 1/74 on the next Anny --- an f11 value for one Traveller will be f8 on the next DianaF and so-on. Holgas arent much better ... this is why talking about exposure in such precise values is meaningless in toy camera photography. the best thing, IMO, is to pick a film - 400 iso's seem to be best for natural light - pick a developer (the more compensation the better) and find a time that works for you. Toycamera photography is an approach as much as anything - save the precise control for the hasselblads and rollies etc - toycameras=imprecision from exposure to print. much more freeing that way!

cheers!

[donna-marie]

"400 iso's seem to be best for natural light - pick a developer (the more compensation the better) and find a time that works for you. "

isn't that what I said? except to add " . . . and the scene"

[Leon]

isn't that what I said? except to add " . . . and the scene"

whoops - am I repeating? sorry. And sorry for repeating too.

:0) !

ps - if I ever repeat anything ... let me know

[Jim Chinn]

Buy Arista 400 film from Freestyle. Repacked Ilford HP5 but less expensive I believe. No use running more expensive film. Also There is no difference in the shutter settings on a Holga, I don't know about a Diana.

As already pointed out, you best control is through processing of the negatives. I usually play around with HC110 in various dilutions to get desired results. You will get the most consistant results shooting on sunny or light overcast days.

Another option which I do with Holgas is to have two or three cameras. You can drill out the aperture on one, test focus range and use that camera on more over cast days. This does tend to soften the image slightly more but still maintains the sharp middle area that holgas are known for.

[donna-marie]

leon . . . just responding to this "you meter when using a toy camera? that goes against the whole reason for using a toy camera. the unpredictability is key for me" then next post you repeat me . . . silly pants.

(just keeping the peace)

[Leon]

where's that arricept prescription when you need it, eh?

(Google it if you dont know)

[Mark Wangerin]

Jim,
So the weather icons are for adjusting shutter speed? My guess would have been those settings were for the iris.