Also suggest a second back - for switching between colour and b&w films.
Probably worth getting a light seal kit off eBay. I replaced all the seals in my backs when I bought them.
Have you used a camera that has a waist level viewfinder before? If so and you like it, the Hasselblad is a great camera (but like any camera it has its compromises). If you haven't, I would recommend picking up a Yashica Mat 124 (or the 124G) for about a hundred bucks and see if you like that style of shooting.
With regard to lens choice, it may be a consideration that the C and C T* lenses have a self-timer built into the lens, whereas in the newer versions (CF and on) this feature has been omitted. (There is no self-timer on the body of the camera.)
I use a twin lens reflex with a waistlevel finder, so I do have some experience. Overall, it's a bit nicer than a prism finder.
The listing I'm currently looking at has a 80mm C T* lens, though I can get the same thing with a CF T* lens for about an extra $70. I don't know the differences (other than the CF T* is newer and apparently the C T* has a timer). Is the difference worth the extra money?
Is it me? (I should perhaps ask "am i me?", but somehow that doesn't sound right. Though i'm sure it is)
Originally Posted by Sirius Glass
There were more C 80 mm lenses produced with T* than without. Not a lot more, but more.
If you want to be sure an 80 mm C lens has the T* coating, get a black one.
As mentioned, CF ergonomics are better than that of the C lenses. Rubberized focussing ring, instead of the knurled metal thing. Better flash terminal, Better DoF preview. And easier to set shutterspeed and aperture rings.
CF lenses do take bayonet 60 filters, the C lenses take bayonet 50 filters. But contrary to what was suggested, bayonet 50 filters are not harder to find than bayonet 60 filters.
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Pop the extra $70, Newer lens, better handling, look cooler ;]
I second the suggestion to pick up an additional back. Of all the cool things Hasselblads offer, being able to switch films mid-roll is one my favorites.
Also, a newer focusing screen or better yet, one of the Acute-Matte D screens, is worth a bit extra. I still can't focus mine worth a toot, but the new screen got me a lot closer.
OK, I probably won't buy a focusing screen right away (unless the outfit doesn't come with one...) but does anyone want to explain the differences of what's available? What does each offer, and are there any screens that wouldn't be compatible?
I definitely want to get a second A12 back, maybe even a A16 at some point for some extra - albeit non-square - frames on a roll of 120.
I completely agree about the Acute-Matte D screen being an option you should seriously consider. I find the screens to be of major benefit in my bodies, especially when I use longer lenses. Even with standard and short focal lengths the screen makes life a lot easier. I prefer the #42217 that has the grid and split image. The screen can be inserted 90 degrees off, that allows the split image to be used horizontally and vertically. A nice advantage of the 6x6 format.
Another item I would mention is a basic shade for the standard lens. You can always buy a bellows shade later on if you find the need for one. I have both the basic shade and a bellows shade and I find the cameras are easier and faster to use with the standard shade when hand held. The bellows shade can get in the way sometimes. My preference is the plastic standard shade, not the metal one. The metal ones get banged up easily but the plastic shades don't and they are less expensive. I would also ask KEH for the late version finder. It's the one with the large black plastic tab used for opening.
Originally Posted by jackbaty
All screens work.
Originally Posted by yeknom02
There are three 'generations' of focusing screens.
The first was as bright as a 'normal' diffusing focusing screen can be, but not the brigthest. Also had a rather coarse Fresnel lens. Worked great though.
As far as the 'standard', plain screen with reference cross screen goes, this generation is easily recognized by the fact that the reference cross is marked in black paint.
The second was made by Minolta, and is called "Acute Matte". The Acute Matte screens are one stop brighter.
They were made brighter by using optical trickery, that, instead of scattering light in all directions, directed light to a point where your eye is supposed to be.
And due to this trickery, they are in fact a little more difficult to focus.
The standard plain screen with reference cross can be recognized by the fact that the lines of the cross isn't marked in black, but formed by raised lines, embossed in the plastic bottom of the screen.
The third generation consists of modified Acute Matte screens, called "Acute Matte D". Though still using the optical trick to keep them bright, they are a little bit more like conventional screens again, making them (or supposed to make them) a bit easier to focus again.
Acuet Matte D screens can be recognized by a D-shaped cut out in the metal rim of the screen.
All three generations come in different types (with and without a single, or combinations of, focusing aid(s), and/or grid lines).