Mamiya RZ67 - Problem with successive shots
Hi everybody !
I am completely new to the analog mamiya world and received my RZ67 set yesterday. I just wanted to try a bit the beast without film and came across the following problem : when I try to "take" a shot, I am only able to use the shutter once. Then, whatever I try, I must remove the lens before being able to "take" an other shot.
Here are my step-by-step actions:
- Without the lens, with the RM lever on "white", I push the cocking lever to set the mirror.
- I then attach the lens.
- I then take a picture, everything works fine. I even checked without the Film Holder and the mirror/shutter are working properly.
But then, I can not just use the cocking lever and take several other frames. The shutter refuse to work and the monitor light for "Cocking Lever Not Set" illuminate.
To take an other shot, I must restart from scratch by removing the lens,...
Anyone has an idea ? That would be really helpful !
Thanks a lot in advance !
Try it with the back on & set for multi exposure.
Thanks a lot for your answer.
I tried both and still the same ...
You shouldn't attach the lens with the body cocked. You are probably cocking the camera body but not the lens too. That's my wild guess on your problem.
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Really ? Because that is what I understand from the manual page 11 "Setting the Mirror"...
Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac
dry firing this w/o film is tricky. as mentioned, the usual way is to set it to multi-exposure. otherwise, you will likely have the problem you are experiencing. it knows there's no film in it and won't keep firing it.
Can you fire it when set to the manual 1/400 speed using the small ring around the shutter button? you have to pull the ring and turn it to the orange mark I think. Try that, see if it works multiple times.
If the battery is weak the light will flash in the finder, if it's not, then it's likely as mentioned above. The interlocks on this camera are sophisticated and sometimes too smart for their own good when it comes to things like dry-firing.
You can also try w/o the back on, that should allow multiple dry fires with normal shutter speeds.
Thanks Ed. Maybe it's just the fact that it does not like to be fired dry... Even with the film holder removed, I have to quickly remove the lens after each shot, then cock the lever, then reput the lens and I can take the next shot.
My RZ knows when there is film in it and gives no end of grief without it. I would recommend burning a roll and seeing if that fixes the problem; I used the same roll for a while: after shooting it all, unwind without removing the paper and rewind by hand onto the original reel, now you can use it again.
My bet is the camera knows it has no film but the shutter is already cocked; so it lets you fire the cocked shutter but not advance because it hasn't advanced past the necessary paper to reach film (in its' mind).
Once a photographer is convinced that the camera can lie and that, strictly speaking, the vast majority of photographs are "camera lies," inasmuch as they tell only part of a story or tell it in a distorted form, half the battle is won. Once he has conceded that photography is not a "naturalistic" medium of rendition and that striving for "naturalism" in a photograph is futile, he can turn his attention to using a camera to make more effective pictures.
Hi - if the mirror is in the correct down position before you attach a lens and the lens shutter is cocked (i.e. the pins are aligned with the green dots), the camera will fire with or without a back provided the RM lever is set to M. If the lens shutter is not cocked, or the mirror is in the up position when you attach a lens, the camera will jam. This can get confusing if you are using the 75mm shift lens as it has to be manually cocked after every exposure. I'm assuming you are using a RZ lens and not an RB one but in any case, the process should be the same. If the camera jams as you suggest, despite having the mirror down before attaching a lens with the shutter cocked and the RM lever set to M, then I fear you have an electro-mechanical fault though it is likely to be easy for a camera repairer to remedy it.